Tuesday Afternoon 

A good boulder problem to an OK climb, but not too clean. My partner pulled off a few chalked-up holds the size of footballs under the crux roof, then I pulled off the huge starting flake (150 lbs, estimated). The climb is probably safer now, and more solid.... Fun moves, less interesting up top than below.

We cleaned up the mess left on the ground and built a nice little bench out of it.

We climbed this on Thursday - thanks for knocking the big stuff off. There's a lot of sand on it, and a fair bit of loose rock still. I'd give the boulder-ey section a 5.11c/d for one move and the remainder roughly a 5.10... so maybe 5.11 as an average.

But it's a pretty tricky boulder move off that left hand to the sidepull. Doesn't feel very secure.

While climbing on this last week, we had an unfortunate occurrence on this rock. After my first send, I wanted to go a second time and clean the roof for a friend, and the sketchy flake on the roof, that was always suspect, finally broke. My feet were on it and I was reaching for the sidepull when all of a sudden CRACK,two pieces of rock flew out, nearly killing my innocent belayer.

Needless to say, its a bit harder start now, probably in the 12a/b range, so while aI agree with the previous grade of 11a as a whole, that bouldery start has some more burl in it.

Anyone try it since then?

I climbed this today - coming out of the roof gave me the most trouble - I think I cracked off the very last of what was the infamous "flake." And now, without it, I'd feel very confident rating this section 5.12a and the remainder 5.11b/c (keeping the upper slab crux in mind).

Hmmm. Choss evolves over time. Perhaps this one should have been better cleaned from the get-go, given the venue and nature of the climb.