This is the route between the Fapanese Direct and The Devil, up the right margin of the Earth Angel headwall. It starts off twin seams above the small ledge left of The Devil, goes over a small roof (you may share a fingerlock or two with The Devil), then trends left into the hanging corner, with a crux getting around the arete. You have big-air potential at the crux -- wild slap moves -- but nowhere to stop to clip. However, you can get up the Fapanese Direct pretty easily and drop a toprope, if it's getting wiggy.
Above the crux, stay left to climb the flared crack/pods, ending at the chains below the big block. The first lead stayed on the mossy right side of the arete to finish, but it's very dirty over there and probably won't clean up much.
Matt, thanks for posting the info on these two rtes. I was up @ Avalon today and was wondering what the new lines were. This one in particular looks really nice. Thanks for your time and effort to put them up. BA
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