Fapanese Direct 

FA:  M Samet, R Garibotti New Route:  Yes Type:  Sport Consensus:  5.12b/c [details] Length:  1 pitch, 80 feet Season:  Spring, Summer, Autumn Views: 791 page views Submitted By: Chris Beh on Mar 26, 2008 Add Photo  Add Comment

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Description 

This is a new route (autumn 2007) up the roof-to-headwall right of Earth Angel, on the Tarot Wall. It climbs out the body-length roof via a sort of inset corner before railing left along the lip to the head up incipient cracks on the headwall.

Someone had drilled holes for anchor bolts at the top, but didn't put the bolts in, so we used those. The roof is the business, but the headwall is pumper than it looks -- very sustained for Boulder Canyon and a top-quality line...

Location 

Ten feet right of Earth Angel, out the body-sized roof in the middle of the left side of the Tarot Wall.

Protection 

8 bolts to two-bolt anchors; slings or extendo draws helpful on bolts two and three.