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Castle Rock
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Storming the Castle 

5.11

   

FA: Topher Donahue
New Route: Yes
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.11b [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 30 feet
Views: 580 page views

Submitted By: mike r on Mar 9, 2008


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Description 

Crux is 2/3 of the way up; fun route.


Location 

On the face/arete right of Comeback Crack and left of Curving Crack. New route, 1 yr old.


Protection 

Bolts.



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By Jimn Seiler
From: North Platte, NE
Jun 25, 2007

What is the bolted route directly to the right of Comeback Crack? It goes up maybe 4 or 5 bolts to a two bolt anchor to the best of my recollections

By Bennie
From: lafayette, CO
Jul 13, 2007

I was recently up at Castle Rock and saw this new bolt line. It is, in my opinion, put up in extremely poor taste. One can easily toprope this line. There are 3 bolts within 7 - 8 feet of each other and the climb is only 35ft. tall. The routes that didn't get bolted by the masses of developers over the past 3 decades were not chosen for good reasons. It is people like this that create problems and access issues.

By mike r
From: lAurora,CO
Aug 22, 2007

Access issues? what!? in Boulder Canyon? you gotta be kidding. It's Boulder Canyon, land of the bolted cracks!!! Yeah!!! Welcome to Boulder Canyon!!!!

By Peter Beal
From: Boulder Colorado
Dec 14, 2007

Has Headline actually been redpointed yet?

By Peter Beal
From: Boulder Colorado
Mar 10, 2008

The actual Headline is the route/project that branches left of Deadline and is probably 5.14. Maybe a renaming of whatever the 5.11 is would be in order?

By RalphE
From: Louisville, CO
Aug 29, 2008

I agree with the poster above that these bolts are placed in extremely poor taste. This is a squeeze line placed adjacent to ultra-classic clean lines pioneered in the early 1960s. These bolts are immediately left of Curving Crack and the route name does not match the write-up above.

Will the person who placed these bolts please take it upon themselves to carefully remove these bolts without damaging the rock any more than they already have? That would show some integrity.

By Todd Ritter
Aug 12, 2009

While possibly "a sqeeze job" at first site, this route climbs extremely well. The bolts in no way impede on routes to the right or left. It looks to be about 5.8 but certainly feels like 11b once you're on it. I was glad to clip each bolt, especially the last one. A worthy addition; put in by a guy who has been a silent steward of Castle Rock for some time now.