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Wine and Roses 

Melancholy Man 

5.11b

   

FA: Bob D & Greg Hand
New Route: Yes
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.11- [details]
Length: 75 feet
Views: 560 page views

Submitted By: Bob D'Antonio on Feb 20, 2008


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Description 

The crux is getting established over the roof.


Location 

About 100 feet right of Free Willie at the right side of a low overhang. Lower from a two bolt anchor.


Protection 

Nine draws and long sling for a horn.



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By Aeon Aki
Apr 12, 2008
rating: 5.11a

After the roof this line continues up a short section of bad rock, and has a very large and very suspect flake on it. I avoided it completely after hear a discomforting echo ringing through the bowels of this block. Use it cautiously if you must.

By Tony Bubb
From: Boulder, CO
May 1, 2008
rating: 5.11- PG13

I thought that the first clip was a little high to get a draw on from a good stance. The feet were shedding on me, which made for some nervousness, given that a fall before the first clip is a 'non-option.' The grade felt about right, probably 11-, but I missed the mono/duo pocket, as it was pointed out to me later. Others said it was easier with that (11a?). It will be good climbing once it cleans up more.