Great tip laybacks lead to the third bolt. Photo b...
Description
Exquisite position and movement. You will encounter laybacks, smears, crimps, palming, dynos, backsteps, flags, and an overhang. Quite a few moves packed into a short pitch 200 feet above the ground. Clip the first bolt by climbing near the anchors and reaching right. Then start climbing below the first bolt. This is so you do not fall directly onto the belay. There is one rest below the overhang.
Four star climbing, but 50' is a very generous estimate of its length. Crux is at the 3rd bolt, though there is not a single gimme move; its continuousness reminded me of High Test at Sport Park. The grade seemed tough for an onsight, but not too bad for a redpoint.
Great route. The setting is awesome to start from the top of Bihedral Arete. Tough liebacking moves and hidden holds make it tough to onsight. Sweet route well worth doing.
CL
By Dave Pilot From: Boulder, CO May 15, 2008 rating: 5.11d
Beautiful! Exposed! Sequential. Hard. Wish it was twice as long. Do it!
By proto From: Falmouth (MA) - Boulder (CO) Oct 6, 2009 rating: 5.11d
Very nice even if it is also very short. I agree, not an easy one to onsight although there is no very hard move.