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The Garden

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B Boys, The 
Before The Deluge 
Border Crossing 
Crackdown 
Dutch Treat 
Fine Fir 
Just Do It 
Showtime 
Smooth Operator 
Storm Warning 


The Garden

Submitted By: Ron Olsen on Sep 19, 2007
Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst
Elevation: 6,950 feet
Latitude: 40.0043  Longitude: -105.4063 
Aerial photo/map | Weather
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BETA PHOTO: Selected routes on the north face of Tonnere Tower...


Description 

The Garden is in the center of the north face, in a secluded spot hidden from the road by large pine trees. There is only one sport route here (Before The Deluge); all the other routes are mixed, and require gear in addition to the bolts. Routes here range in difficulty from 5.7 to 5.11+, with most in the 5.8 to 5.9 range.

Outstanding routes include Before The Deluge, Crackdown, Showtime, and The B Boys.

The leftmost route (Just Do It) has its own anchor. The remaining routes (Fine Fir, Storm Warning, Before The Deluge, and Crackdown) share a 2-bolt anchor, on a pedestal about 65' up.

This common anchor is the starting point for four more routes: Showtime, Dutch Treat, Border Crossing, and The B Boys. All of these routes are mixed, and scale a beautiful, exposed pinnacle with great position. The hardest line in this area is Smooth Operator, 5.11+, which takes off after the first pitch of The B Boys.

From the start of Crackdown, a steep dirt path heads down and right to the Creekside area and Local Hero.

See beta photo.

Routes from left to right:

19. Just Do It, 9, 1p, gear and 2 bolts. Face and cracks on the left side of the wall. Lowering anchor with hooks.
20. Fine Fir, 7, 1p, gear and 2 bolts. Climbs past a pine tree 15' up the wall.
21. Storm Warning, 10a, 1p, toprope. Face just right of Fine Fir.
22. Before The Deluge, 10a, 1p, 5 bolts. Bolted face in center of wall.
23. Crackdown, 9, 1p, gear and 1 bolt. Finger crack on right side of wall.

Routes starting from the common anchor atop routes 20-23:

24. Showtime, 8+, 1p, gear and 1 bolt. Arete on left side of pinnacle.
25. Dutch Treat, 8, 1p, gear and 1 bolt. Starts on Showtime, and moves right to cracks in center of pinnacle.
26. Border Crossing, 8, 1p, gear and 1 bolt. Starts on Showtime, and moves right to left-facing corner right of Dutch Treat.
27. The B Boys, 11, 2p, 4 bolts and gear. Steep face, then technical stemming corner and roofs, merging with Border Crossing.
28. Smooth Operator, 11+, 1p, 8 bolts and gear. Starts after p1 of The B Boys and merges with Local Hero.


Getting There 

Cross the creek via the tyrolean, or wade or hop rocks if the water level is low enough.

Once across the creek, go to the tree on the far side of the tyrolean, and follow a path up left through the woods.

Take a sharp right just before the talus field on a level path heading upstream. Walk past several pine trees to a secluded clearing after 50'.

This approach takes about 5 minutes.



Featured Route For The Garden
Climbers on Showtime.  The belayer is at the intermediate anchor halfway up the pinnacle. It's possible (and recommended) to climb the route all the way to the top of the pinnacle without stopping at this intermediate anchor.  <br /><br />You can use this anchor on the way down as a rappel station if you have only one rope.<br /><br />The leader is heading for the wide cracks on the right; a nicer line takes the hand crack to the left, onto the prow of the arete.

Showtime 5.8+  CO : Boulder Canyon : The Garden
Showtime climbs the left side of the prominent pinnacle on the north face of Tonnere Tower. It is a great pitch, with face, cracks and exposed arete climbing on solid rock. Excellent position, exposure, and a treat for the tourists at Boulder Falls. Don't miss this pitch on your visit to The Garden!P1: Start by climbing Fine Fir, Before The Deluge, or Crackdown to their common anchor, on a pedestal about 65' up.P2: (Showtime): Start up the gull...[more]


Add Photo Photos of The Garden
Tonnere Tower, showing the major climbing areas:<br /><br />Sport Land -- east face; sport routes.<br /><br />Treasure Wall -- left side of north face; sport and mixed routes.<br /><br />The Garden -- middle of north face; mixed routes.<br /><br />Creekside -- north face by creek; mixed routes.

BETA PHOTO: Tonnere Tower, showing the major climbing areas:

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Add Comment Comments on The Garden
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By Boulderpd
Sep 25, 2007

According to maps provided by the Boulder County Assessor's office, some or all of this area of Tonnere Tower is on private land, parcel number 145936000023. I assume that the landowner did not grant permission for the bolting, vegetation removal and traffic these routes generate, and he is likely unaware that the route development took place. If he becomes concerned about the impact then expect closures.

By Ron Olsen
Administrator
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 26, 2007

I visited the Boulder County Assessor's Office today, and viewed their records and aerial photograph of this property. It is a mining claim known as the Black Diamond Mill Site. The 2.45-acre property has an assessed value of $490. It is not property intended for residential development.

There are no signs indicating private property anywhere in the area.

Many other crags in Boulder Canyon and Dream Canyon also lie on mining claims.

I feel that this does not pose an access issue for Tonnere Tower.