Stayin' Alive is another excellent sport route in Sport Land. The first pitch is good, and the second pitch is fabulous -- one of the best moderate 5.10 sport pitches I've done in Boulder Canyon. Don't miss this one when you visit Tonnere!
Start at a 2-bolt belay anchor below the arete right of Face Off. Be careful traversing over to the start; the ledge is exposed.
P1: Angle right to the arete, and climb past a steep section (9) to a stance. Continue up to the top of a small pinnacle. Cross a ledge, climb a steeper headwall, and angle left to the anchor shared with Face Off and Nick Of Time. 5.9, 90', 7 bolts.
P2. The fun begins! Climb a steep face above the anchor, and move right to a prominent "tooth". Don't pull on the tooth; it's delicate and may have to be removed. Traverse right past the tooth to a left-facing corner. Climb the steep corner and exit right to a stance (9). Climb up and right to a V-corner. Stem and layback up the corner to its top (10a). Climb up and left to an airy arete. Climb the arete and traverse right to the anchor. 5.10a, 95', 13 bolts.
Descend via two rappels with a 60m rope.
Location
On the arete right of Nick Of Time and Face Off. Route #9 in the beta photo.
Protection
P1: 2-bolt belay anchor at the start, then 7 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor. P2: 13 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor. Bring a few longer draws/runners.
Trad climbers can skip some of the bolts and place gear on the route if they so desire.
The first pitch arete is spectacular, because you are on the arete with lots of air and good climbing. The second pitch is fabulous! The dihedral crux makes you think, then the easier, undercling arete keeps the pitch very interesting and airy! A classic at the grade in Boulder Canyon!
P2 is a nice pitch. However, I'd be very cautious on P1. The 3rd or 4th bolt (second bolt on the pinnacle part of the arete) is attached to a very large block (which you obviously have to climb on and over) and, as far as we could tell, the block is NOT ATTACHED to solid rock. Only gravity seems to be holding it in place. For now....
EDIT: I contacted Ron about this block (9/23/07). He's looking into it and will undoubtedly provide an accurate assessment of the situation.
By percious From: Arvada, CO Oct 4, 2007 rating: 5.9
The second pitch has a nice bolted crack on it... Fun moves though. I don't quite understand why there are 4 bolts after the crack, but whatever.
"Trad climbers can skip some of the bolts and place gear on the route if they so desire."
Yup. The second pitch is pretty safe as a trad route. The only bolt I clipped was (I think) the fourth. It was just to the right of a hollow sounding flake (not the "tooth"). There's a lot of solid gear on the pitch.
Sport Land
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