Marga Powell getting ready to turn the corner (10a...
Description
Toe The Line climbs the striking east arete of Tonnere Tower in two pitches. An aesthetic line, with varied moves and good protection. It is comparable to Bihedral Arete in quality, but has a greater variety of moves.
Follow the east face approach on the Tonnere Tower page. Traverse right on the dirt ledge until you're below the east arete. Start at a 2-bolt belay anchor on the ledge. Be careful; this ledge is exposed.
P1: Climb a short dihedral right of a gully to the first bolt, and continue up to the arete. At the second bolt, step left, up, and back right (5.8); going straight up is much harder. Make a delicate step-up move (5.10b) at the third bolt. At the fifth bolt, swing onto the left side of the arete; do not go right. Clip the sixth bolt on the left side of the arete and make an airy high-step move (5.9) back onto the arete. Fun! Make some committing moves (5.9) past the 7th bolt. Continue up to a 2-bolt anchor on the left edge of the arete. 5.10b, 95', 9 bolts.
P2: Straight above the belay is the 5.11 headwall of Generous Donation; this is not the route. Instead, angle up right, past three bolts, around the right side of the headwall (5.10a). Climb a slab and make a fun hand traverse right to an exposed arete (5.8). Climb the arete and a steep headwall above (5.9). Continue more easily to the anchor. 5.10a, 85', 11 bolts.
Descent: Rappel 85' down to the anchor atop the first pitch; angle the rappel a little to the left. From here, rappel 95' to the starting ledge.
Alternate descent: Rappel 95' to the anchor atop the first pitch of Tag Team; this is a straighter line down from the top. Then rappel 65' to the start of Tag Team, and scramble back down to the start of Toe The Line.
Location
The prominent arete on the east face of Tonnere Tower. Route #1 in the beta photo. Follow the Sport Land approach.
Protection
P1: 2-bolt belay anchor at the start, then 9 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor. P2: 11 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.
It's worth noting that the original line on the first pitch stepped right at the third bolt, but that was prior to a loose block being cleaned. I revisited this route a couple of days ago and this move still goes, but more likely at hard ten or 11a. To keep the grade at 10b, swing out left to easier holds.
Never having climbed the route before, I *thought* the crux was a little testy for Boulder Canyon .10b. Hard .10 seems right for the step right in Ron's photo. Thanks Michael.
The first pitch and the first 1/3 of the second pitch are really nice: devious climbing that doesn't end at the third bolt crux. 2 1/2 stars (can we give half stars?)
By kevinnlong From: Boulder, CO Aug 20, 2008 rating: 5.10b
We stitched the two pitches together to make one, long wonderful sport climb at near 60 meters. It's worth doing only if you don't mind the full weight of the rope at the top as well as have ~20 QDs in your possession.
Sport Land
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