Sandy coming down from her first climb after month...
Description
Begin at a west-facing slab just right of Surprising Slab. Climb up low-angled rock with good edges for feet to a break in the roof above.
Continue thru the roof using a good jug for your right hand, then slightly left and finally right to the chain anchors.
Location
About 10.5 miles up canyon on the right side of road. It requires about a 1 minute approach. You can easily scramble up to the top using the steep gully between Nip and Tuck to set up a TR.
Protection
Not much...this route would be a serious lead for the 5.6 climber. Better just to TR it.
By kevinnlong From: Boulder, CO Jun 13, 2008 rating: 5.6 PG13
The more difficult section of the climb, the roof and above, has reasonable pro opportunities. Study the route from the bottom and plan accordingly. While perhaps not a good beginner 5.6 trad lead, I rather liked the "tricky" pro-placing scenario. For that reason, the climb is a good mental test at the grade.
By Julius Beres From: Boulder, CO Jun 29, 2008 rating: 5.6 R
Instead of going to the break in the roof, pull the roof. There is a good undercling and then good holds over the top... adds some fun to an easy line (pulling the roof directly is probably still only 5.7)
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