Update: As of mid November, 2007, the poison ivy has gone dormant. Watch out for plants with little berries; these are poison ivy bushes. Stay away from them and you should be fine to climb here.
I climbed here again on 3/1/08; the poison ivy is still dormant. It should be fine to climb on the left side of the crag from now until mid-May.
From mid-May through October, the hillside below the left side of Boulder Slips is covered in poison ivy. It is difficult to avoid no matter how you approach the climbs. Better to climb somewhere else during this time. Routes on the center and right side of Boulder Slips are not affected.
BETA PHOTO: Boulder Slips Route Overview
1. Edges and Ledges,...
Description
Boulder Slips is an obscure crag just west of the trail to Boulder Falls. It is right next to the road and has very easy access, but, until recently, I've never seen anyone climbing here. The first route on the crag was Boulder Slips, climbed by Pat Ament and Larry Dalke in 1964.
There are seven routes documented in Rossiter's Boulder Canyon guidebook, mostly old trad routes established in the 80s. None of these was popular, due to sections of poor pro and lack of anchors.
In the fall of 2006, 10 new moderate sport and mixed routes were established, all with good protection and bolt anchors. In the summer of 2007, four more sport and mixed routes were added by Bob D'Antonio and Greg Hand. Boulder Slips is now a worthwhile destination for a fun day of climbing. More routes are planned for this area.
L->R:
On the left side of the crag:
A1. Edges and Ledges, 8, 1p, 80', bolts. Steep face. A2. Brand New Bosch, 9, 1p, 85', bolts. Corner to overlap. A3. Party Time!, 9, 1p, 100', bolts & gear. Corner, arete, finger crack, hand/fist crack. A4. Minutia, 8, 1p, 100', gear. Hand crack. A5. Minutia Arete, 9+, 1p, 100', TR. A6. Pumpkin Corner, 9, 1p, 80', gear. B. La Lune, 13a, 1p, 45', bolts & gear. Overhanging thin crack. C. Sunlight Arete, 10, 1p, 50', bolts. D. Useless One, 10, 1p, gear.
K1. The Threshold, 11a, 1p, 100', gear. K2. Threshold Variation, 9+ R, 1p, 85', gear or TR. L1. My Way, 9, 1p, 90', bolts & gear. Arete, cracks, face. L2. Boulder Slips, 9 R, 1p, 85', gear or TR. Corner, roof, slab. M. Where's Bob?, 10, 1p, 60', bolts & gear. Face to overhang. N. The Ride, 10a, 1p, 70', bolts & gear. Face and cracks.
On the left side of the crag, at the top of a path, are seven routes: Edges and Ledges, a fun 5.8 sport route up a steep face; Brand New Bosch, a 5.9 sport route up a corner; Party Time!, a 5.9 corner, arete, and cracks; Minutia, a fabulous 5.8 hand crack; Minutia Arete, an arete that can be top-roped. Pumpkin Corner is the big corner right of Minutia Arete, and Sunlight Arete, is a striking arete on the upper tier.
Older routes in this area include La Lune, an overhanging 12d/13a sport route on a striped wall, and Useless One, which climbs thin cracks in a vertical wall about 60' right of La Lune.
Quagmire and The Throttle climb up the poorly-protected face in the center of the crag.
There are six routes on the right side of the crag: The Threshold climbs discontinuous cracks just left of My Way. Threshold Variation avoids the hard 5.11 section of The Threshold. My Way climbs a striking arete. Boulder Slips climbs the big right-facing corner just right of My Way. Where's Bob? climbs the face and overhang 25' right of Boulder Slips. The Ride climbs face and cracks 30' right of Where's Bob?.
Getting There
Go to Boulder Falls 7.5 miles up Boulder Canyon. There is a gravel pullout on the right just past the trail to the falls. Park just beyond the RTD bus stop which is at the beginning of the pullout, or a little farther up the road.
The routes on the left side of the crag are accessed by a path heading up the hill. Follow the path up about 100' above the road to the base of a broken slab (5 minutes).
The routes on the right side side of the crag are accessed by walking up to a wooded shoulder just above the road (about a minute).
This is one of the best moderate crack climbs I've done in Boulder Canyon: steep, sustained, and elegant. The broken rock at the start, and the vibrating flake near the top keep it from 4-star status, but it is still a very good climb.Walk west on the gravel pullout to the left side of the Boulder Slips formation. Hike up a path to the base of a broken slab. The striking hand crack of Minutia can be seen about 40' above.Climb up easy broken rock...[more]
Almost hesitant to promote this crag right now as I want it to myself for a while! Easy approach, a sunny south-facing disposition and some quite good (to very good) moderate climbing will make this place a popular destination. Edges and Ledges is certainly one of the best 5.8 sport climbs around and Minutia makes a great 5.8 trad lead. The climbs are close together, making it great for a "social" venue of climbing. I am told that the anchors for most of the routes on the left side can be reached after leading Edges and Ledges if one wishes to set up top ropes that way. One caveat is to be a bit aware of some loose rock potential as this area has not been climbed much yet. Wear your helmet!
I agree with Gary! I almost want to keep this one secret! When Practice Rock is full, and you can't get a lane at the Bowling Alley...head over to Boulder Slips! Some great bolted routes and I bet you could find many new trad lines. Nice! Great on the Sunday with the perfect weather and long lines... No one here.
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