BETA PHOTO: Subterranean Homesick Blues. Climb the slab right...
Description
Great slab climbing on a nicely featured wall.
Pitch 1: 11b/c Climb up and over a small roof (gear) and make a weird move to the first bolt. Crank up a seam past several bolts with dicey moves. At the sixth bolt, make a hard move straight up, and then continue straight up (gear & bolts) the cool slab to a two-bolt anchor. 100 feet.
Crossing the river in high water was the crux for me.
Pitch 2: 5.12a Blonde on Blonde pitch: Bob D'Antonio & Ron Olsen: Crank up a flake and seam past two bolts, make a very hard slab move clipping and moving past the third bolt. Cool climbing past five more bolts leads to a two-bolt anchor.
Rap the route doing two-single rope rappels.
Great route that will only get better with a little more cleaning.
Location
Start about 100 feet right of Country Club Crack at a one-bolt anchor (to keep you and the belayer out of the river). Rap from two two-bolt anchors.
Protection
12 quickdraws plus gear to a purple (0.5) Camalot.
Ron Olsen and I added the second pitch to this route. The pitch is rated 5.12- and has what I feel is a very hard slab move getting past the third bolt.
Great route and will only get better with more ascents and a little more cleaning.
By Ron Olsen Administrator From: Boulder, CO Jun 26, 2006
The 12a slab crux on the second pitch can be bypassed by traversing right, moving up to a headwall, and underclinging back left. Fun moves, but not recommended on lead. Done this way, the pitch becomes solid 5.11 with the crux at the second bolt.
Lots of great moves on this pitch, but it needs more cleaning.
Castle Rock
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