The crux is getting over the roof at the start. Start as for Red Bull, clip a bolt over the roof and make a series of hard moves getting established over the roof. Clip the third bolt and then reach a ledge, place the cams and then fire up the cool arete firing past two more bolts to the anchor.
Protection
Five clips plus a yellow and green Alien will get you to a two bolt anchor.
There is another start to this route. Climb straight up the easy slab left of Blood Whine. Crank over a small overhang (gear) at the ledge. Veer right and join Blood Whine near the arete. This makes the route 5.10.
FA Greg Hand and Bob D'Antonio
By Tony Bubb From: Boulder, CO Nov 16, 2006 rating: 5.10d
The low crux is a single power sequence. Maybe 10+/11-. Not sure. The start also need not be as for Red Bull, you can do the slab left of that lone bolt for some new territory, and it's not too hard or unsafe. The arete up top has cool moves- look for camouflaged holds instead of getting sucked too far off to the right.
Higher Energy Crag
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