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Tarot Wall

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Constant Gardener (aka the Pursuit of Fappiness), The 
Devil, The 
Earth Angel 
Fapanese Direct 
Fool, The 
Goat F***er 
Hanged Man, The 
Horse, The 
Lust 
Magician, The 
Tower, The 
Wheel of Fortune 

Tarot Wall

Submitted By: Ron Olsen on Mar 29, 2006
Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac
Views: 7,773 page views

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BETA PHOTO: The First Tier and Tarot Wall areas of Avalon.


Description 

Tarot Wall is the leftmost area on the Second Tier. Home to a number of good 5.10 and 5.11 sport routes, including The Devil (11c), Lust (10c), The Tower (10a), and Wheel of Fortune (10a). Earth Angel (12d) is a difficult testpiece that has seen very few ascents.

A fun new route, The Magician (9 or 10), climbs an arete at the left side of Tarot Wall.

L->R:

A. The Magician, 9 or 10, 1p, 80', gear to 3" & bolts. Cracks, arete, face, roof.
B. Ah Ya Punter, 11, 1p, gear. LFD & roof.
C. Earth Angel, 12+, 1p, 80', 9 bolts. Face, roof, and arete on left.
D. Fapanese Direct, 12, 1p, 80', bolts.
E. The Constant Gardener, 12+, 1p, bolts.
F. The Devil, 11, 1p, 70', 8 bolts. Steep, bulging face.
G. Lust, 10, 1p, 90', 12 bolts, steep face.
H. The Fool, 10, 1p, 60', 7 bolts. Awkward at start.
I. The Tower, 9+, 1p, 100', 12 bolts. Long, varied, enjoyable.
J. Wheel of Fortune, 10-, 1p, 60', 7 bolts. Corner, roof, steep face.
K. The Horse, 10+, 1p, 60', bolt & gear. Overhang to cracks.
L. The Hanged Man, 10, 1p, 50', 4 bolts. Brief overhang to face.

On a short wall by the talus field approach:

M. Goat F***ker, 11+, 30', 2 bolts. Short quartz dike.


Getting There 

Climb up the talus field above the Tyrolean Traverse. A dirt trail starts at the top of the talus. Continue up the trail a short distance until the trail splits; take the left branch to get to Tarot Wall. Follow the trail left around a shoulder to the road side of the crag. The first route you'll see is The Hanged Man at a low overhang with a bolt.

If you started your day climbing on the First Tier, you can continue up the path left from there and reach the left side of Tarot Wall, by the route Earth Angel.

Also on the left side of Tarot Wall is a trail heading downstream toward Solaris.

See the Beta Photo for details.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Tarot Wall:
The Tower   5.9     Sport, 1 pitch, 100 feet   
Lust   5.10d     Sport, 1 pitch, 90 feet   
The Devil   5.11d     Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet   
Earth Angel   5.12d     Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet   
Browse More Classics in Tarot Wall

Featured Route For Tarot Wall
Jason Shatek contemplating the exit from the alcove. The airy crux moves are ahead.

Lust 5.10d  CO : Boulder Canyon : ... : Tarot Wall
The third bolted line from the left on Tarot Wall. Start 15' right of the Devil at a face leading to an alcove.Climb up the face to an alcove. Exit left and continue up a steep face. Work left and climb a slabby corner to the top.An interesting variety of climbing. A long sustained line with several cruxes requiring very different techniques to succeed....[more]   Browse More Classics in CO


Photos of Tarot Wall Slideshow Add Photo
Avalon, showing most of the major features.<br /><br />Note: The depicted Northeast Face is also known as Crack Land.

BETA PHOTO: Avalon, showing most of the major features.

Note:...

While belaying, always make sure you are paying attention and in control of the brake hand.

While belaying, always make sure you are paying at...