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Hip Replacement 

5.10+

   

FA: Bob D'Antonio, Greg Hand and Kent Lugbill
New Route: Yes
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.10+ [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 50 feet
Views: 494 page views

Submitted By: Bob D'Antonio on Feb 8, 2006


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Irina Overeem latching the finishing jug.


Description 

Start on the the same flake for Lost Dentures. Stick clip the first bolt and reach right to a small layaway. Crank to a good bucket and then follow the bolts to the anchor.


Protection 

Three bolts to a two bolt anchor.



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Irina Overeem starting the crux.  The first bolt is just above, still out of reach.

Irina Overeem starting the crux. The first bolt i...


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By Kevin Neilson
From: Boulder
Apr 16, 2006
rating: 5.10b

The first move of this climb is interesting but the rest not too exciting. If you had a pad you could do this as a boulder problem, since the crux isn't that high. The first move is burly, requiring a powerful powerful shoulder to push off the left flake to get the left-facing incut with the right hand. (I don't recommend trying the intermediates.) Being taller helps. From here you can lock off and clip. Then you reach up (I crossed over with the left) to the right to a big jug and the climb is done.

By Bob D'Antonio
From: Superior, CO
Apr 16, 2006

The route has been done as a boulder problem. Watch for loose rock when topping out.

By Greg Hand
From: Golden, CO
Apr 16, 2006

When first led by Bob, the big jug did not exist. A 2 foot high detached column sat on the jug. After we realized it was loose, we pushed it off to avoid an accident.

By Ron Olsen
Administrator
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 5, 2006
rating: 5.11a

Definitely bring the stick clip for this one unless you're a solid 5.11 leader. The crux sequence requires some precise body position while the pump meter is ticking. My partners and I all did the final move to the jug as a dyno with the left hand crossing over. After that, it's an easy ramble to the anchor shared with Lost Dentures.

By Tony Bubb
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 23, 2007
rating: 5.10c

Height or arm-length dependent. A reach followed by a scrunch problem. You have to make a semi-hard move to clip the first bolt, so in reality, you might as well be bouldering the start. And that's pretty safe- the point is to get a spot at the beginning.
This route is 37 feet long including the top-out to the anchors.

By Bob D'Antonio
From: Superior, CO
Aug 23, 2007

Tony wrote: This route is 37 feet long including the top-out to the anchors.

I measured 38.5 feet on the FA...but I could be wrong.

Just kidding.

There is good bouldering to the right of the route. Several problems have been done. The top out are a little loose. Be careful.

By Greg Hand
From: Golden, CO
Sep 16, 2007

At the request of a climber, I have equipped Hip Replacement with its own set of anchors. This will eliminate rope abrasion while lowering or top roping.

By djoseph
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 9, 2007

I agree with Ron's assessment, above. This felt like a fun, interesting V1/V2 boulder problem (easier for tall folks) followed by a short bit of 5.8 climbing. Recommend a stick clip or a crash pad and spotters for the first bolt.

By Zed
From: Gotham City
Oct 17, 2007
rating: 5.10+

I guess I could call this 10+, but I thought the opening sequence up to the jug above the first bolt was trickier than anything on Early Bird Special, across the street.

I up and downclimbed the opening section 5 or 6 times before I found beta that worked for me without having to lunge through it, and then it was still hard. It is an interesting boulder problem, but the rest of the route left much to be desired.