On the lower tier. Start at a obvious flake in the center of the rock. Climb the flake (or climb the thin crack on the left 5.10). Veer left then straight up thin seams/cracks to the anchor.
By Ron Olsen Administrator From: Boulder, CO Sep 5, 2006 rating: 5.9
A fun bouldering traverse along the flake to get to the crack where you can place your first pro (#2 Camalot). The thin seams up higher took some thought to find the best line; I went a little right near the top to get some pro (blue/green hybrid Alien), then stepped back left for the final moves.
The anchor is two bolts with smash links and chains. The chain is already very rusty. This would be a good candidate for an anchor upgrade with quick links and stainless chain.
I replaced the anchor on this today. The original chain I bought was really strong, but was not coated and thus rustable. I have been replacing them as I remember where they are. Last week I replaced the chains on Depends and was going to do this one also, but I had an "incident" with Ray that cut our day short. He tore his biceps muscle off, and there was a lot of screaming!
This is a fun little pitch. I found a perfect #10 stopper placement in a finger slot that protects the moves up to the bolt. You could plug an Alien in here, but then there would be no room for your fingers, and the stopper is bomber. There was also what looked like a good medium cam placement just above the lower shelf, although I had no cams with me.
Not to start a shit storm, but I am inclined to say that this would have made a better sport route. It is basically a face climb, and the placements are definitely not in a crack, per se. I just don't see the point of carrying a rack to do twenty-five feet of moderate mixed climbing. Just my opinion.
Ken wrote: "I just don't see the point of carrying a rack to do twenty-five feet of easy mixed climbing. Just my opinion."
Fair enough. Your opinion. But some of us think mixed routes (bolts and gear) provide some of the most enjoyable and interesting face climbs around. It's great to have a variety of routes (sport, trad, and mixed) in an area.
I generally agree, Dougald. Just thinking out loud. I guess it's the very short nature of this route and wall that caused me to think about it that way. The routes at Nursing Home are almost like overgrown boulder problems.
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