Crash Test Blondes is on the furthest North end of the crag proper and is the first route to the right of the 5.9 warm up, "Pup". The rock itself is rather blonde, but I would not want to crash test it or the landing. The line fires up to a small overhang by climbing on very slabby rock, that is not a slab. The nearly continuous friction climbing makes the start feel like a slab. Turn a corner and head up sparsely protected to the overlap. Big jugs, and the crux move just preceed the anchor. I found both roof bolts to be easy to clip, but felt that the last bolt was too far right to protect the move to the anchor very well. Other than that, this is a fun route, but feels very committing.
Protection
QD only. Bring 8-9 draws for the route and a couple of clips for the double bolt anchor at the top of this 70-75 ft route.
I did this route on 9/29/02, and the large sidepull between the first and second bolt is loose. It does not feel loose when I was yarding on it, but when I let go I heard a sound that sounded like rock against rock. I then tried to move the hold and found that I could.
As of October, both bolt anchors still have at least an inch worth of washers; this seriously compromises the strength with the bolts sticking out this far.
By Kevin Neilson From: Boulder Jun 16, 2005 rating: 5.11c
This is a wonderful route. The only problem it has is one of consistency--most of the route, save the roof at the very end, is good 5.10, and the roof itself is 5.11. There is one confusing point about halfway up below a small roof. There appears to be a blank face leading to a small roof with no holds and a huge runout to the next bolt. There is actually a bolt obscured by the small roof.Get your feet high, stand up with the aid of a small 2-finger sidepull used for balance, and then reach for the big hidden crack underneath the small roof and make the clip. The roof at the top is the star of the route. When approaching the roof, you have to go left, clip the bolt in the middle of the roof, and then work your way right and undercling the huge flake. Then you can clip the bolt at the edge of the roof. The next moves are super-burly.You have to get your feet really high and you are really exposed (although there is no dangerous fall potential). Work your hands up and move to the right to get a big hueco and another big hold over the roof. Then, with the left foot really high, haul your way over the top. Stellar.
Upper Security Risk
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