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Tese 

5.10

   

FA: Greg Hand, Bob D'Antonio, Irina Overeem, Ron Olsen and Kent Lugbill
New Route: Yes
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.10- [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 100 feet
Views: 1,521 page views

Submitted By: Ron Olsen on Sep 22, 2005


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Greg Hand at the second bolt on the first ascent.
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Description 

Start right of Romancing the Stone. Climb up a cool face making nice moves on edges and knobs past two bolts. A yellow Alien can be place before the third bolt. Make cool moves stemming up and over several small overhangs to the anchor.

ADD on: 6/10/08...Greg Hand and Bob D just added a extension past the anchor climbing along a cool arete with great moves. The route is now 100 feet long and 11 bolts. Be careful lowering as a 60-meter rope just makes it to the ground.

A great addition and one of the best 5.10 sport routes in the Canyon.


Protection 

Ten clips and a yellow Alien will get you to a two-bolt anchor.



Photos of Tese Slideshow Add Photo
Greg Hand in the airy corner near the top of the route.

Greg Hand in the airy corner near the top of the r...

Irina Overeem making the thin moves past the second bolt.

Irina Overeem making the thin moves past the secon...

Irina moving left into the steep corner on Tese.

Irina moving left into the steep corner on Tese.

Irina moving up to the overhang near the top.

Irina moving up to the overhang near the top.

Tese (pronounced "Tessie") climbs a steep face past two bolts. A yellow Alien can be placed in a finger crack after the second bolt. Move left and climb a fun stemming corner and a roof at the top.

BETA PHOTO: Tese (pronounced "Tessie") climbs a steep face pas...


Comments on Tese Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newest — Skip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 5, 2008
By Ron Olsen
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 23, 2005
rating: 5.10b

An excellent, sustained route with varied moves.

If you're headed to Sherwood Forest, stop here first and do this route!

By kyle lefkoff
Sep 28, 2005
rating: 5.10a

A high-quality short line climbs an interesting feature. Kudos to Bob and his team for this fine effort.

By ac
Sep 28, 2005
rating: 5.10a

Short & a tad forced, but pretty cool nonetheless!

By desbien
From: denver,co
Jul 23, 2007

Heady bottom section for a 10. nice and balancy. Did without the added pro with no problem. I would call this 10c to be consistent with the area not 10-. Definitely worth doing.

By Greg Hand
From: Golden, CO
Jun 10, 2008

Tese has been extended to 100 feet.
Now you need 11 draws to a 2-bolt anchor.
A 60 meter rope gets you down. Tie a knot to be sure.
The second half is easier than the first and has fun climbing on the arete. There is no longer an anchor at the half way point. If you have a 50 meter rope, you may need to go to the anchor on No Direction Home or Scarecrow to the right.

By Jeremy
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 16, 2008
rating: 5.10a/b

Really good route. I thought the crux was right off the ground. The extension portion really has a lot of lichen still.

By Dan Brockway
From: Boulder
Jun 26, 2008

I did the extension today and thought it made the climb much more classic and enjoyable. Thanks for the work guys.

By djoseph
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 13, 2008

What a great climb. With the new extension, there are four sections: a thin slabby part followed by a blocky roof section, then a fun arete and finally a relaxed corner at the top. Agree with Bob that this is one of the best 10s in the canyon. Thanks Greg and Bob for extending it! (Note that you need 11 draws plus anchors... skipped the alien myself, and seemed fine.)

By Friso Schlottau
Jul 21, 2008

Great route! The extension makes this climb a great pitch - thanks to the FAs. The lower section (overhangs) has a few spots of interesting rock, though. I remember tapping a hand-hold and feeling my feet reverberate... (just after finishing the overhang).

By Ken Leiden
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 5, 2008
rating: 5.10a

Greg Hand wrote: "We have left the 2-bolt anchor at the half way point for climbers with shorter ropes."

The midway anchor is no longer there. One of the bolts has been cut and the other bolt has only a hangar on it now. One can traverse to No Direction Home if you have a short rope, but going to the top provides very fun climbing.

By Greg Hand
From: Golden, CO
Aug 5, 2008

Ken, thanks for the reminder. I meant to make that note when we put in Scarecrow, we removed the intermediate anchor. I will change my comment above.