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Manic Depressive 
Sleeper 

Manic Depressive 

5.12

   

FA: Mark Wilford and Skip Guerin, 1979
Type: Trad, TR
Consensus: 5.12- [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 40 feet
Views: 149 page views

Submitted By: Steve Annecone on Sep 6, 2005


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Description 

This excellent line follows a thin finger crack up to and over the roof. Once arriving at the roof, things get much more involved with powerful underclings and lunges to sloper holds, and finally a lunge to a good hand jam.

For even more fun, try the thin crack just right of the regular start which leads to the same roof crux, but involves more 5.11 and 12- moves before getting to the roof. This variation is very sustained and better than the regular start. Whichever way you start, there is a surprisingly large amount of hard climbing in such a short stretch of rock.


Protection 

Nuts and small cams, plus a hand sized piece for after the crux.



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By Chris O'Connor
From: Boulder, Co
Oct 4, 2006
rating: 5.11d

So, after the first roof, I went left through the next roof, does anybody else go this way? or is the hand crack to the right where most people go?