BETA PHOTO: Climb-Eye-Knight. The rock is a little grungy, bu...
Description
This is the first pitch of a multi-pitch route. I did not climb the upper pitches. The first pitch is 10b; the upper pitches are harder (12 A0).
Go to the left side of Vampire Rock and continue up about 100' until you can see bolts on the vegetated, lichen-covered wall and corner system on the right. This is the route.
P1. Climb the face and corners to an overhang. Make airy moves past the overhang and climb the tricky face above. Work right to a short finger crack and continue up to the anchor. (10b)
The rock is a little grungy, but there are lots of good moves on this pitch.
Despite its looks, this is a pretty decent route. Left around the corner from The Bureau, it's hidden and obviously sees little traffic; it could use some cleaning. It was more challenging than I'd imagined. At the first roof, I got crunched underneath on poor feet. Above that, the holds are consistently slopey. Stem as much as possible.
At the "finger crack", if you proceed up the bolt line (the finger crack is a bit to the right of the bolt line) I think it's harder than 10b. Anybody else try it on the bolt line? There's a move with a left hand fin that's harder than the finger crack. I thought it was a fun, long (about 80 ft) line - 10 bolts, Rolofson book says 8....
Vampire Rock
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