Home - Destinations - People - Partners - Forum - Photos - What's New
 ADVANCED
Main Wall
Show routes:
Select route...
Bolt Cola 
Center Direct 
Charisma 
Cold Fusion 
Eagles Are People Too 
Erickson's Crack 
Get Shorty 
Lichen To Like 
October Surprise 
On Ballet 
Orange Corner 
Reamer, The 
Resolution 
Shimmer 
Simmer 
Slimmer 
Talon Contest 
Where Eagles Dare 

Center Direct 

5.9+ R

   

FA: Dean Moore and Charles Alexander, 1962/ FFA: Reveley and Erickson, 1974
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.9+ [details]
Length: 3 pitches, 250 feet
Views: 201 page views

Submitted By: CHRIS.T on Oct 15, 2003


Add Photo  Add Comment 

You and this route  |  Other Opinions (2)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
 Printer Friendly View

Blob Rock open for climbing MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Start 15-20 feet up the gully from the start of "Where Eagles Dare".

PITCH 1: Climb 15 feet up a slab/arete to a good cam placement, then traverse left across a beautiful slab to the crux overhang on "Where Eagles Dare" but take the horizontal finger crack out left and over a bulge (5.9+). Continue up and left over a somewhat unprotected slab with a finger rail seam to a right-facing corner/notch. Belay at a old piton and a bolt (back it up). Look up to observe the large, old eagles nest that looms above you.(An old bolt and pin may be in place on this pitch.)

PITCH 2: Climb up and right through a diagonal offwidth crack then traverse straight right around a bulge. Belay at two bolts (same anchor as Where Eagles Dare).

PITCH 3: Go left to a corner and climb a fridge-like block, place a small nut or rp in a dirty seam. Climb up and right to a shallow corner just below a huge, orange dihedral that goes diagonaly left (5.8+s). Climb this corner/roof crack to its end (5.9+), then join an easy, short slab/corner to a huge walk-off ledge. Descend the ledge west (4th class) or rappel from anchors at the top of other routes along the way.

A few of my variations are different than the description of this route in Rossiter's guidebook.


Protection 

Gear to 4 inches with small nuts, RPs and long runners.