THis route is fairly far left on the small crag. Go to the left side of the wall, just to the left of a large juniper tree that aligns below the wall's high point.Walk left perhaps 3 meters from ther to find a series of jugs, step and sidepulls up a buttress to reach a crack system. Of the 3 cracks above, the climb 'Jamie' climbs using the two onthe left here and there, the one on the right being the climb 'Elegant Peasant.'CLimb up the buttress (yawn) and to the crack to place gear and climb (6 meters of real climbing to come). Most of the moves are 5.9 to 5.10a, with a few that are harder near the top. At the top, there is the shared anchor with links for rapping down as per Elegant Peasant. Lots of side-pulls.
I flailed on this on the lead. Thought it was in the 10+ range. The individual moves are not quite that hard but always low 10 or harder, they are tricky and easy to screw up, and the rests are marginal. Gear placements are always from tenuous stances. Dan Hare (FA) was there as I was struggling on this, and he remembered it being hard and tenuous. Gear: Double Aliens from green to red (single if you place them in the correct sequence) and a couple of nuts in the 1/4" to 3/8" range. I placed a gold/#2 Camalot into the good jam, but that turned out to be a mistake. Better to make the move and place a smaller cam in the rattly finger lock above.
Truth or Consequences Crag aka Inca Stone
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