Mountain Project: Climbing Boulder Canyon

FA:	Richard Rossiter, 2005
Type:	Sport
Consensus:	5.10- [details]
Length:	1 pitch, 60 feet
Views:	867 page views

Submitted By: Ivan Rezucha on Mar 31, 2004

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Description

This is a short route that climbs an arete and a roof between Road to Isengard and Lothlorien. About 15' of hard climbing on slightly crumbly rock.

Start in the same spot as for Road to Isengard. Move up and right to a slab. It's a long way to the first bolt, but the climbing is easy. You might want to clip the first bolt on Road to Isengard and then move right. Clip two bolts on the slab and continue up to a steep headwall. Work up the left arete and move right onto a slab below the roof (crux). Clip the last bolt above the roof and turn the roof on the right. The 2-bolt anchor is just above.

Protection

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By Cisco
Apr 3, 2004

I climbed this last week and to me it felt a lot easier than 10c, maybe 10a.

By Jake Wyatt
From: Longmont, CO
Jul 4, 2004

The interesting move over the roof merits a star.

By Ron Olsen
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 13, 2004
rating: 5.10a

The crux is moving right onto the slab under the roof; turning the roof past the final bolt is much easier. Beta: there's a good hold on the left edge of the roof; you just have to work high enough to reach it.

When you lower, leave the last bolt below the roof clipped if your partner is top-roping. This will keep the rope from running across a sharp edge on the roof should your partner fall at the crux.

By Ron Olsen
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 27, 2005
rating: 5.10a

This route is "Minas TirEth" 10a on Richard Rossiter's website:
http://www.boulderclimbs.com/watermark.html

By Bob Packwood
From: Longtucky, CO
Nov 22, 2006

I'd rate it solid 10a for the last couple 2 moves. To me they were finesse moves. Delicate and real fun!

By Gary Schmidt
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 20, 2007

Actually a fun little climb. And for what it is worth, I found the route probably also goes around 5.10a by staying on the left arete and up over the overhang.

By percious
From: Arvada, CO
May 31, 2008
rating: 5.10a

Sort and suite. Very sequency at the crux.

By Robby Cribbs
May 15, 2009

Crux is very well protected. Try the toe hook under the ledge to move into the crux move. Although it wasn't a tall climb, it was definitely a fun one.

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