The second bolted line from the left on Tarot Wall. Start at a tree stump about 30' right of Earth Angel.
Ascend a steep face on thin holds. Sustained difficulty after a rest by the third bolt. The crux comes at a bulge above a horizontal crack about halfway up. Near the top, you can move right then back up left for the easiest line, or climb straight up past the last bolt for a harder variation.
Look for a 6" tall, WAY overused 'cheater-stump' at the base of this climb. For .11d, it seems reasonable that the line runs straight through the flared crack at the top (look at Ron Olsen's third photo below), and not right then back left to the rings. Much easier to bypass the would-be crux if you do go right at the flared crack, then back left again at the rings.~Wm
By Tony B From: Boulder, CO Jun 22, 2005 rating: 5.11b
When I got on this I thought I was warming up on a 10d and looked at the top move and balked- I cheated right by grabbing an edge around the corner. Then I came down and did it direct and decided that it was pretty doable that way too, but the feet are somewhat poor. I think it was easy 5.11 (11a or 11b) if done directly through the flared crack, moderate 5.10 (10b or 10c) if cheating to the right up top. Regardless, fun and pumpy.
Really fun route with good movement and good bolting. Agree it's more like 11b/c (and I went pretty much straight up at the end). Definitely not 11d. Get on it!
I made the mistake of warming up on this. We didn't know what it was, but it looked fun. Talk about a flash pump!
By Caleb Phillips From: Boulder, CO May 18, 2009 rating: 5.11b
Solid 11b or easy 11c IMHO. Previous comments about bailing right towards the gully at the flaring crack are dead-on. There are also some sidepulls left just above the horizontal sloper/crack which I'd say need to be off-route for it to be 11b. With a little wandering left and right, it's still probably 10c or 10d.
Fantastic climb overall. Sustained with interesting moves. Bolting is very safe and well done.
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