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Marquis de Sade 

5.10c

   

FA: Richard Rossiter and Bonnie Von Grebe, 2001
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.10b/c [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 60 feet
Views: 557 page views

Submitted By: Chad Stebbins on Oct 18, 2003


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BETA PHOTO: Marquis de Sade. The crux is the slanting finger ...


Description 

Marquis de Sade is the fifth route from the left on the First Tier, right of Body Count. It is on the right side of the obvious near vertical face. Follow the bolts up the face, and climb a short finger crack (crux) to the obvious roof above. Climb up to the right of the roof and then pull up and left to surmount the roof. Try not to chimney off the block to the right.

The crux comes before the roof at a tricky finger lock with difficult feet. May be more difficult for those with a short reach or poor crack technique.


Protection 

7 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.



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By Ron Olsen
Administrator
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 25, 2003
rating: 5.10d

A pumpy route with several hard sections. The crux finger crack seems harder than 10c; I'd call it 10d. The moves over the roof are exciting and the 7th bolt (above the roof) is a tough clip.

By Anonymous Coward
Jun 20, 2005

I liked stemming off the block behind to go over the roof. At least, it was more fun than pretending it wasn't there.

By Wanderinfree
From: Boulder, CO
May 30, 2006
rating: 5.10c/d

I have to agree. The crux crack move was really thin for 10c.

By tooTALLtim
From: Boulder, CO
May 13, 2007

I wasn't going to stem the block at first, but it was more fun than worrying about "style". JUST HAVE FUN

By Matt Gates
From: Longmont, CO
Jun 2, 2007
rating: 5.10b/c

Finger crack is not too bad (not easy either). I stuck my left foot in the crack and found purchase for my right on a little something on the face. The roof moves are a riot w/ many big holds to choose from. Best to move quickly in order to have some gas to clip the bolt above the roof.

By Clayton Laramie
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 2, 2007

Interesting the way that the crack in the roof was sealed up to prevent the rope from getting stuck. Normally I'm not in favor of altering the rock, but it seems to be quite useful here.

CL