BETA PHOTO: Body Count. Continuously difficult thin edging. Th...
Description
Body Count is the fourth route from the left on the First Tier, just right of Slayer. It is on the left side of the obvious near-vertical face. Follow the bolts up the face to surmount the obvious roof above. The crux is fun and technical slab climbing.
2 things: first of all this climb felt harder than 11a. I went right of the first two bolts and maybe should have gone left?? Also, be careful on the second clip. Making that clip was the crux of the whole climb for me and if you came off before clipping you would certainly hit the ground quite hard. Other than that fun, crimpy and uber pumpy climbing. ung
This climb is reasonably fun, but the fun is dampened by the close proximity of the lines left and right, which produced an unpleasant "I-wonder-if-these-holds-are-on" mental debate. Not to mention questions about which bolts to head toward.
The climbing itself is pretty straightforward crimping, with a couple of balncy moves. The line right of this is better defined, and has more interesting moves, in my opinion. Maybe I was just cranky.
By Kyle Turner From: Brighton, CO Oct 16, 2006 rating: 5.11a/b
This climb is thin and balancy to start, but really well protected. I'd say its got a couple of 11a/b moves in the middle but the top is 9+. Another solid climb at Avalon.
Recently had a go at this route and a key hold (mid-reaching right hand crimp/gaston) just past the second bolt busted off.I finished it and then tried it again the same day on top-rope to see what it would be like and it is definitely still 5.11a/b. There is a smaller and dirtier crimp in place of the old one that is useable or reach high and right to a finger catch and thumb catch to by-pass it. Still a great climb with the true crux, in my opinion, a little higher up.
Another Rossiter route with a clipping crux (or two). I guess those types of things happen when you are furiously grid bolting as fast as you can. The actual climbing is good, but the location of the 2nd bolt, and to some extent the 3rd bolt, detract from the route quality.