Alex, sobbing like a fool, pioneers a new move, th...
Description
The business of this route is just off the ground - - bring your big gear for this OW/squeeze. Struggle, grunt & cuss your way thru 15 feet of clean off-width, too small to get all the way into, and too big to jam (chicken-wings sorta work). Note that it can be climbed on face holds mostly, if you want to avoid the OW. Then again, why would you be here if that's the goal?
Above, run thru the gully onto the face above, and choose one of many options to the top. Or, take the rap slings to your right back down (about 15' right)(you don't want to belay from these).
I'd just like to add that I have immense respect for those who climb OWs with grace, style & technique - - none of which I possess. This kicked my butt, and I'm sure I provided those on the ground with great entertainment watching me flounder.
Protection
You get to use that big stuff that's been hanging uselessly on your rack. 2 #4 Camalots, a #5 is helpful. Several blocks to be slung as well. Upper section appears to take the standard stuff - - nuts & cams.
Face climbing through the crux seemed harder than 10b to me. If you have really huge hands, you can get a fist jam at the crux. However I have larger than average hands, and I couldn't get the jam.
By Tony Bubb From: Boulder, CO May 19, 2003 rating: 5.10b
The first pitch felt like 5.10 on big moves with odd "windmill" cross-over moves. The O.W. below is hiding a few sidepulls that facilitate crossing a right to the sloper on the left, then match and put the left hand to the jug on the right. Secure and not too hard. The second pitch of this route is really fun and cool. If you beat the first pitch, keep going up for a second battle at the handcrack through the roof (5.10). You can get to just below the P2 roof with a single 60m line. Protect with Friends from 2-3.5" 4" piece optional, where it will be easier anyway.
Felt like doing a freestyle swim...there are some really key heel-toe cams that allowed me to reach that slopey rail for the mantle. Big ups to Chuck for leading that with 3 pieces.
Castle Rock
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