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Days of Future Passed aka Our Future Has Passed 

5.12a

   

FA: Bob D'Antonio and Greg Hand
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.11d [details]
Length: 1 pitch
Views: 1,522 page views

Submitted By: Jake Wyatt on Apr 26, 2001


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Starting the crux.


Description 

It's pretty much a one-move-wonder, but this 12a is fun anyways. 20 feet of easy climbing leads to 2 seams that offer a fun sequence of sidepulls and foot smears. The roof above the crux pulls out onto a slab that puts the anchors within reach.


Protection 

Draws for 6 bolts, a fixed nut, and a 2 bolt anchor.



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Mid-crux.

Mid-crux.

Post crux.

Post crux.


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By Chris Archer
Oct 27, 2003
rating: 5.12a

Terrific route involving a semi hidden hold at the crux. I thought Bob called it "Days of Future Passed."

By Greg Hand
From: Golden, CO
Oct 27, 2003

Actually I wanted to call it "Days of Future Past" after a Moody Blues song. This was around the same time we did "Piles of Trials" which was from a Moody Blues refrain: Face Piles of Trials with Smiles. This was because my ACL exploded at the base of the climb and I had to come out of the hospital for the FA. For historical information, FA 9 Feb 1996.

By Anonymous Coward
Aug 26, 2004

I thought the crux on this was desperate and thin. The climbing above and below was more fun. Good route. Isn't there a piece of fixed gear on this thing?

By SirVato
From: Toyota-rado
Jun 7, 2006
rating: 5.11d

This was a pretty sweet route!! A good candidate for a 1st lead @ the grade. I don't really down grade routes but. . . I've had harder times on a few 11+s than I did with this. What do I know this was my first 12 lead. The moves are awesome though!!

GEAR ALERT- as of 6-6-06 almost EVERY bolt was a spinner!! I'll try to get back for the red point this week so, while I'm there I'll wrench on those bolts.
Also, the fixed nut is not too good looking - the cable has separated from the nut itself (more like a cable wrapped around chock). The moves to the next bolt aren't too hard or far.

By Chris O'Connor
From: Boulder, Co
Sep 11, 2006
rating: 5.11d

Fun but short crux. Definitely easier than Feeding The Beast right around the corner.

By Paul Hunnicutt
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 15, 2007

The fixed nut is questionable. Bring some small stoppers or a small cam to back this up if you are worried clipping the bolt at the crux. I couldn't figure out how to transfer my weight onto the hold at the bolt at the crux move. After that you are pretty much done.

By David A. Turner
Apr 22, 2008
rating: 5.12a

Gear alert. The fixed nut is missing. As we had no gear besides quickdraws with us, and unwilling to commit without that bit of gear, we traversed from the top of Free Willie, to the anchors on Days, hung the draws, including extended slings off the crux bolt.

By Greg Hand
From: Golden, CO
Apr 22, 2008

I had noticed the nut was missing yesterday. I just replaced it with a new one about 2 months ago because the one that had been there since we put the route in looked real bad. I guess I did not smash it in hard enough. Too bad people have to steal things. Maybe we will put another bolt in there.

By Greg Hand
From: Golden, CO
Apr 24, 2008

We placed a bolt where the fixed nut had historically been.
Also replaced the bolt below this one as it was a spinner that could not be tightened.

By Doug Lintz
From: Lincoln, NE
Oct 20, 2008

This is a fun route, there are at least half a dozen sequences for the crux section.