This excellent route delivers the pump, with great moves on solid rock.
"Nevermore" ***(5.13a) is the bolted line just right of the arete "Empire of the Fenceless" ***(5.12a). It shares the crux, and the first 30 feet of "Tell Tale Heart" *** (5.12b), but continues right above the roof instead of exiting left.
The initial 20 feet of 5.10 climbing on big holds is a great intro before reaching the roof and a devious 5.12d crux toward the end.
One must power through a variety of interesting moves and holds before reaching the chains. With slopers, crimps and jugs, .... gastons, drop knees and heel hooks, this climb will keep your head thinking and your forearms pumping. Once you enter the business district, the clock is ticking as the pump grows.
This route is very well protected. However, some of the clips (7 & 8) can be difficult and add to the pump. To work the crux on toprope without swinging right, bring a directional (0.75-1.25 cam) to stuff in the crack directly above the crux moves.
As another person commented, this route "flows like honey on hot cakes." Yeah baby!
This is one of the better routes I have done in the canyon. Sustained technical power endurance culminating in some nice sloper moves and a throw. Can't ask for much more.
This route can feel a lot easier depending on conditions and the height of the climber. If you feel a route is off by two letter grades you should probably register and let us all know who's keeping the "newbies" in their place. Some who think this route is pretty hard aren't newbies.
I have seen very well established climbers not be able to do the moves on this route - much less link it. For those who feel it is easy for the grade - more power to you.
Things to know if you want to do this route to beef up your 8a scorecard, or just your spraysumé, and aren't the type to just climb for the experience of climbing:
> Crux finale seems stout for the shorter climber using the right-hand-crimp method. Heel hooks are NOT mandatory at the crux. > Basically feels like climbing a solid 5.12a followed by a 5-to-6-move V5. > I'd say it was soft if I hadn't missed the finishing jug a half-dozen times already. Beware. > My buddy who did Sonic Youth (5.12d/13a) found this to be more difficult, in that Sonic took him fewer tries. > I think this route does favor the power climber, since the climbing leading up to the crux is pretty easy, especially when you get it dialed.
Chuff on, chuffers.
By Hank Caylor Administrator From: Left Hand Canyon, CO Oct 27, 2008
DAMMIT! This fucker felt 13a in July fer sure.... That sloper thingy for your hands (with dyno) at the end with the polished foothold for feet just felt a little more diificult than other 13a's. And yeah, I did Sonic Youth 2nd try and it felt super solid. Nevermore pissed me off tho!
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