Between The Bureau on the left and Transylverina on the right is a new line that takes off from the talus and heads toward two shallow roof systems. The line splits at the 30 foot point into left and right hand variations. Near the second roof, the right hand line splits again for an easy finish on the right that dodges the roof move. The interesting sequence through the roof moves left and then steps back over the roof just before the anchor. Good rock, nice pro, interesting climbing, and all rather benign since the climbing is mostly in the feet.
This route(the straight up variation)is called "Monkeys Uncle" 5.10d . it is located approx. 30' right of "wanker" (behind tree and boulder). 3 variations exist; going left from 3rd bolt out small roof to thin holds on headwall is "A.C.E." 5.12a . the middle line up small corner and small roof is "Monkeys Uncle" 5.10d . the easy right hand finish is "Monkeys Sister" 5.10b/c . all end at same 3 bolt anchor. f.a.s of all three routes; Steve Sangdahl and John Baldwin ,summer 2000.
We really enjoyed this climb, the multiple small roofs kept this interesting to the end. One question though, Stephen, how bad were the large flakes at the last roof before they were glued (the middle 10d version I guess from your description)? It seemed to us that if they were pulled out it might have made the climb an 11 or so (but who knows, right?). That was the only drawback for me, seeing all that glue. Just wanted to get your thoughts on why you wanted to save them.
The climbing is good on these routes. However, I feel that a couple of the bolts could have been placed in better positions, especially for those who are climbing the Monkey's Sister variation at their limit.
Vampire Rock
RSS Feed
