Climber approaching the bulging upper section of I...
Description
Start at the left side of The Wall of the Dead, in the chimney that is the start for Tomb of Sorrows.
There is a loose shelf leading up into the chimney and the first bolt is in a black-streaked area on the right.
The route is well bolted and has some good moves through the middle section. Gain a rest at a flake and go for the crux moves approaching the anchor above a bulge of sorts. Good quality rock, good protection, rather continous and interesting climbing.
Besides the fact that this route is contrived, dirty, unesthetic, rotten and the 5th bolt is in an exfoliated plate, I just can't find a place to keep my pants clean when I'm sitting to belay...
I climbed it last weekend and found it enjoyable. The rock was clean and solid, with the exception of the loose crack to the right of the first few moves (although using the crack isn't necessary anyway). The route itself had interesting moves, and seemed rather sustained. The cruxes felt to be at the very beginning and very end.
Rossiter's website (boulderclimbs.com) grades this climb 10a. It felt like 10+ to me (as compared to other 10s I've climbed in Boulder Canyon).
By Ernie Port From: Boulder, Colorado Aug 18, 2005 rating: 5.10b
Keeps you thinking if you avoid bailing right after half way. Last clip made easier by finding hidden hand hold out left...decent stances the whole way.
If 5.10 is your limit, this will feel very hard. If you warm up on .10s, skip this one and do the next one to the right (Dead Again).
By Julius Beres From: Boulder, CO Sep 20, 2008 rating: 5.10b
This is a 10 if you go straight up the bolts, but if you reach right it can go as easy as 5.9 or 5.8. I don't like routes where holds 1 foot right of the bolts are "off," since they seem contrived, but if you climb it as a 5.9 then it is fun.
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