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"S" Buttress, The 
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The Juice 

5.12d

   

FA: Rolofson, I think.
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.12c/d [details]
Length: 1 pitch
Views: 785 page views

Submitted By: Walt Wehner on Dec 2, 2001


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Dan Levison pulling the roof on The Juice. Photo ...


Description 

This route is 15 feet right of Plan B, and is another guaranteed super-classic. Climb 40 feet of tricky 5.11 to a nice no-hands rest, then begin the business. The route stays continuously difficult for another 35 feet through a capping roof, though the crux is noticeably harder than the rest of the route (and REALLY hard for shorter people). If you're really tall (like, over 6 foot by at least a few inches), the crux will come statically and relatively easily. For everyone else (myself included), it's a little bit dynamic and definitely super-reachy. A fantastic route.


Protection 

12 QDs or so. Double bolt anchor.



Photos of The Juice Slideshow Add Photo
Ted about to latch the finishing jug.

Ted about to latch the finishing jug.