Third route from the left. Climb up and right past overlaps between two black streaks. After the fourth bolt, continue straight up (placing a yellow Alien for pro) to a higher anchor, or angle left along a quartz dike to a lower anchor shared with the routes on the left.
Protection
4 bolts, 2 bolt anchor (shared with the route to the left). The 5.8 leader will probably want to attempt to place gear after the bolts end at half-height (small nuts or yellow Alien).
Two things I noticed about this route. 1. It would easily go with gear for the competent 5.8 leader, 2. At least one very suspicious pocket on the route. Does anyone know about this pocket? Ive climbed in the canyon for 7 years and can count on one hand the number of perfect pockets I've seen and two of them were within 15 minutes at the Riviera.
Otherwise a fun route that will mind bend anyone not used to runouts.
This route is called 'Abandonment' and is rated 5.8. You can continue up from the 4th bolt to a higher anchor (bring gear if a new leader) or follow the quartz dike up and left to the anchors shared with previous route. Either way a decent route on easy rock.
This route is fun but rather short. I felt it was a bit harder than Topless Etiquette. The four bolts are probably only 10 feet apart (total), then there is a runout of 30' or so to the anchors. The top part is easier, but you would probably hit the ground if you slipped. For peace of mind I'd recommend a few Aliens (I used a yellow Alien).
I wouldn't recommend running the top out. There is a thin move near the anchors and a slip would be fatal.
By DamageVic From: Coal Creek Canyon, CO Jul 8, 2009 rating: 5.8
Did this yesterday- led it clean w/ the beta from this site. Placed a green Alien above the 4th bolt & a black Alien in the flake just a little ways from the anchor (above Lease Agreement/NLOL). Had a great time, fun route!
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