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Routes in Bell Buttress - Main Crag
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Arms Bazaar T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Beethoven's Fifth T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13 |
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Bell Air T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Bell Buster S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Bell Buttress Blitz T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b PG13 |
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Choss-Daggers T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a R |
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Cosmosis T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Daedulus Direct T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a PG13 |
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Double Jeopardy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Epiphany T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R |
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Epiphany Direct T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R |
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Freak on a Leash S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Front Line T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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Frontier T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R |
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Gates of Eden T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Grand Inquisitor T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Headwall T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Hound Dog S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Joe Pontiac T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Minos Right T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Mystery Arete S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b PG13 |
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North Face T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Pitts, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Purpose, The T,S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Route That Dan Missed, The T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b X |
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Saved by the Bell T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Spoiled Moose, The T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c R |
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Spoils, The T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Three Minute Hero T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Tiempos de Ceguera (Times of Blindness) S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Tiers T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Unknown T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Unknown Crack T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Verve S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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West Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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West Face T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Wrinkles T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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| Type: | Trad |
| FA: | Alec Sharp, Richard Carey |
| Page Views: | 12,222 total · 44/month |
| Shared By: | Orphaned User on Aug 31, 2001 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Seasonal Closures 2024 - Bitty Buttress, Blob (Eagle Rock & Security Risk now open!)
Details
FS (3/27/24): Eagle Rock & Security Risk are now open!
2/1/24: W. McCurry: to protect nesting golden eagles, U.S. FS annual area closures in Boulder Canyon beginning 2/1/24 - Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, Eagle Rock, Security Risk.
USFS lifted closures 7/26/23.
From W. McCurry: 2/10/23 Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk opened. Eagle Rock stayed closed - info: fs.usda.gov/detail/arp/news….
W. McCurry, NFS, Arap./Roo. NF: USFS began annual area closures in BC 2/1/23. The closures were Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Through 7/31/23, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera will remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District with BCC monitors nesting progress & informs climbers about giving the eagles space to raise young.
Fed. & state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting closures. Signs are posted at key access pts into the closed areas. Closure info: fs.usda.gov/goto/arp/eagles.
K. Armstrong, Public Affairs Specialist, Nat'l Forest Service: as of 6/8/21: BC areas reopen after unsuccessful nesting.
K. Armstrong, NF Ranger 7/29/20:
Following a 5 mo. closure to protect nesting eagles, the Roosevelt NF has reopened Eagle Rock.
“The BC eagles successfully raised 1 strong & healthy eaglet this year,” wildlife biologist Aurelia DeNasha, USDA FS. “2 chicks hatched initially, only 1 survived to fledge, which isn’t uncommon in birds of prey.”
Visits to the nest did not reveal the exact cause of death of the 2nd chick, but climber cooperation with closures are crucial to the eagles.
“Golden eagle pairs are most susceptible to disturbance when choosing a nest. These closures allow the birds to pick the best site for survival without impact of other factors, such as human presence. Once chosen, nest sites stays closed until the eagles fledge in late July,” said DeNasha.
After the eagles’ site selection was made, unused areas opened in Apr.
The annual nesting closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Effective through 7/31/20, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise their young.
It is against federal & state law to disturb any nesting bird of prey. Only employees, volunteers, & wildlife professionals under an agreement with the FS enter nesting areas for monitoring purposes. This is for the integrity of nest & the safety of the eagles, those conducting surveys, & the public. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting all closures & leaving immediately if you should accidentally enter one.
For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, call the Boulder Ranger District office @ 303-541-2500, or visit local climbing websites or fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
As of 4/21/20, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open. Eagle Rock stays closed until 7/31/2020 confirmed with Matt Henry, Rec Prog Mgr, FS.
From K. Armstrong, FS Pub Aff, katherine.armstrong@usda.gov, 970-222-7607: 3/20/19, Blob, East Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security are open. Eagle stays closed to climbing & other activities through 7/31/19.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress & to inform climbers.
See - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Perennial notice:
Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security will close 2/1 - 7/31 for nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened/lengthened.
Each year, BC raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting 2/1 through 7/31 at Eagle, Security, Blob, & Bitty Buttress. The area is monitored & closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the FS Boulder Ranger District, BCC, & Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec…
2/1/24: W. McCurry: to protect nesting golden eagles, U.S. FS annual area closures in Boulder Canyon beginning 2/1/24 - Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, Eagle Rock, Security Risk.
USFS lifted closures 7/26/23.
From W. McCurry: 2/10/23 Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk opened. Eagle Rock stayed closed - info: fs.usda.gov/detail/arp/news….
W. McCurry, NFS, Arap./Roo. NF: USFS began annual area closures in BC 2/1/23. The closures were Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Through 7/31/23, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera will remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District with BCC monitors nesting progress & informs climbers about giving the eagles space to raise young.
Fed. & state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting closures. Signs are posted at key access pts into the closed areas. Closure info: fs.usda.gov/goto/arp/eagles.
K. Armstrong, Public Affairs Specialist, Nat'l Forest Service: as of 6/8/21: BC areas reopen after unsuccessful nesting.
K. Armstrong, NF Ranger 7/29/20:
Following a 5 mo. closure to protect nesting eagles, the Roosevelt NF has reopened Eagle Rock.
“The BC eagles successfully raised 1 strong & healthy eaglet this year,” wildlife biologist Aurelia DeNasha, USDA FS. “2 chicks hatched initially, only 1 survived to fledge, which isn’t uncommon in birds of prey.”
Visits to the nest did not reveal the exact cause of death of the 2nd chick, but climber cooperation with closures are crucial to the eagles.
“Golden eagle pairs are most susceptible to disturbance when choosing a nest. These closures allow the birds to pick the best site for survival without impact of other factors, such as human presence. Once chosen, nest sites stays closed until the eagles fledge in late July,” said DeNasha.
After the eagles’ site selection was made, unused areas opened in Apr.
The annual nesting closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Effective through 7/31/20, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise their young.
It is against federal & state law to disturb any nesting bird of prey. Only employees, volunteers, & wildlife professionals under an agreement with the FS enter nesting areas for monitoring purposes. This is for the integrity of nest & the safety of the eagles, those conducting surveys, & the public. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting all closures & leaving immediately if you should accidentally enter one.
For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, call the Boulder Ranger District office @ 303-541-2500, or visit local climbing websites or fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
As of 4/21/20, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open. Eagle Rock stays closed until 7/31/2020 confirmed with Matt Henry, Rec Prog Mgr, FS.
From K. Armstrong, FS Pub Aff, katherine.armstrong@usda.gov, 970-222-7607: 3/20/19, Blob, East Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security are open. Eagle stays closed to climbing & other activities through 7/31/19.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress & to inform climbers.
See - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Perennial notice:
Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security will close 2/1 - 7/31 for nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened/lengthened.
Each year, BC raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting 2/1 through 7/31 at Eagle, Security, Blob, & Bitty Buttress. The area is monitored & closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the FS Boulder Ranger District, BCC, & Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec…
Description
This is one of Boulder Canyon's longest and finest crack climbs, a shorter, steeper version of Country Club Crack without the annoying mantle at the bottom. It is on the smooth buttress right (west) of the gully which splits Bell Buttress in two, about 100 feet past Cosmosis along the ledge system.
Begin just right of Epiphany. Step up over a small roof, clip a bolt and move past poor holds. Move right under the lip of the hanging roof (be sure to arrange protection before you step out right), crank a burly move to a finger lock, then race the pump clock up the perfect layback/crack above. A final thin seam takes you to a nice belay ledge with double bolts. 20 meter pitch.
A direct finish (Cameron's Finish 5.12 s/vs, rehearsed on toprope) steps right from the top of the crack onto the slabby headwall and climbs up an ever-diminishing seam to a butt-clenching exit crux. Bring two #0 TCUs to protect low in the seam.
Begin just right of Epiphany. Step up over a small roof, clip a bolt and move past poor holds. Move right under the lip of the hanging roof (be sure to arrange protection before you step out right), crank a burly move to a finger lock, then race the pump clock up the perfect layback/crack above. A final thin seam takes you to a nice belay ledge with double bolts. 20 meter pitch.
A direct finish (Cameron's Finish 5.12 s/vs, rehearsed on toprope) steps right from the top of the crack onto the slabby headwall and climbs up an ever-diminishing seam to a butt-clenching exit crux. Bring two #0 TCUs to protect low in the seam.
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