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Oil Pan Hook Shot 

5.11a/b

   

FA: Rick Leitner, Richard Wright - April 1998
Type: Sport, TR
Consensus: 5.10c/d [details]
Length: 1 pitch
Views: 459 page views

Submitted By: Jeff Lockyer on Oct 1, 2001


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Description 

This route is located on the upper tier of 'The Bowling Alley'. Climb the gully to the right of 'Take the Termites...' up to a ledge at the base of 2 bolted routes on the upper right hand side of the main wall. This route is the leftmost of the 2 routes. The crux comes at you right off the ground. There are 3 close bolts, (10+ back to back moves) once past this crux (keeping feet and hands away from the crack system left) the climbing eases to a final move to the anchor. The bottom of the route has nice moves but the rest leaves a little to be desired. Have fun.. You can toprope this route with a 60m rope by climbing up and around the routes to the right.


Protection 

7 bolts - 2 bolt anchor.



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By Anonymous Coward
Oct 24, 2002

Another forgettable sport route, with a typical face climbing crux to start with, an easy middle section, and a fricking weird ending. Have fun clipping the last bolt if you're short.

By Dave Loring
Oct 28, 2002

I agree with the above comment - the crux is made way easier if you're tall (my 6'4" buddy reached past the lieback seam and just grabbed the jug). Two one-move wonders with easy climbing in the middle.

By Bo Johnston
Apr 11, 2005
rating: 5.10d

I really liked the sequence of the first few moves and it made the route worth climbing. The finish was fun as well with a dyno-like move into the left finger crack leading to larger side clings to the top monster anchors!!

By Tony B
From: Boulder, CO
May 27, 2005
rating: 5.10c

5.11? No way. I have climbed in the Bowling Alley twice now and noticed that the grades here are pretty soft, in general. I don't normally warm up on 5.12s. Seems like Sport Park grades, but without the chip-and-glue. It's not a bad route, but forgettable.

By Richard Radcliffe
From: Louisville, CO
Nov 8, 2006
rating: 5.10d

If this is the route I'm thinking it is, those are some weird-butt 'bolts' (the first two).

By D. Shaw
Oct 7, 2008
rating: 5.11a/b PG13

Did it a few times and the difficulty depends on how you do it, as is true of many routes. Stay a bit left at the crux and it is perhaps easier, which would also be true for a taller person. Top was wild/fun move.