Start this route to the left of Athlete's Feat. Begin on the left side of the large boulder, go left and up technical, sometimes loose rock. Expect a good left-hand sidepull, and you've probably got the route. Lower from fixed anchors. Pro is sparse, so it's more like a solo if you lead it.
nice description. What I gained from it was that this "route" starts somewhere left of Athlete's Feet; that there is a sidepull somewhere on the pitch; and that somewhere up there you'll find fixed anchors. Oh, and i also learned that it has unprotected, loose climbing. nice contribution.
I'm confused about where this route is. The route just left of Athlete's Feat is called Never A Dull Moment. The first pitch is a slab traverse to the right and is protected by two bolts. It is rated 12a and seems to be reasonably protected (on this first pitch). To the left of this route is Jackson's Wall Direct (aka South Face). Does it lie in between these two routes? Are the anchors shared with another route?
By Mike Munger From: Boulder, Colorado Jun 19, 2007
It would be nice to have a better idea where this variation goes. There is a variation that was lead by John Matson in the 80's that uses the first piece of pro on the first pitch of Athlete's Feat but instead of mantling by the second bolt, the line traverses left below the headwall and up to the first pitch anchors of Athlete's Feat from below. By all accounts it is pretty run out.
Castle Rock
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