Start at the base of a large ramp left of The Owl. Scramble up the ramp with thoughtful pro to avoid immense rope drag as you traverse left under the huge roof. There is a couple of very old battered pins at the start of the traverse, I ignored them - they looked too dangerous to trust. Set up a belay at the left edge of the roof at a comfy ledge. Pitch 2 - There are a couple of choices from here: above the belay is Gorillas Delight 5.9+ [old school 9!], traverse further left to a 5.5 crack or do what we did and go for the 5.7 crack that starts just left of the belay ledge. Step left off the safety of the ledge and get down to it! The 5.7 crack start is the sketchiest part of the climb - I stabbed a 3.5" in the crack and my heart settled down a bit. The crack above is choice hands and fists. Great!
By Andrew Gram Administrator From: Denver, CO May 11, 2002
I thought the 5.7 second pitch was far far harder than any other 5.7 I've done in Colorado, and some of the 5.8s. Decent route, but an awful lot of wandering for 5 tough moves.
You can also start this route about 75 feet below the 5.7 crack, left of the A-shaped roof and the large pointy flake. Cruise left up the ramp to an undercling and make a fun move through the first wall. Angle right to the bottom of the crack, a #4 camalot is nice to have here. Continue as from the first belay in the original description. The route can be done with a 50 M rope in one pitch with no rope drag this way.
Before you leave the belay ledge you can sling a wobbly chockstone with a 4' runner about thigh level on the right side of the 5.7 crack. The moves up the crack are pretty airy but there are good hand holds on the left and jams in the crack.
The direct start to the 5.5 finish doesn't seem to be mentioned above. This makes a very nice and obvious, aesthetic line, but perhaps is S for pro. Climb the open book to the left of the regular start, approaching it via the blunt arete on the right. This leads to the left edge of the roof and into the second part of the dihedral. The climbing is easy, since it's low angle, but there's not much for your hands or for gear, since the crack is closed off and/or rounded. You get good gear every 15' feet or so--bring double green to red Aliens or the equivalent.
The Dome
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