Security Risk 

I combined the first and second pitch easily with a 60m rope, for a very enjoyable long pitch. I stayed near the 5.7 start, but actually went slightly right of the 5.7 section, climbing through the bulge via the 5.9-ish squeeze slot. Granted it doesn't sound very appealling, but it was a short section, well protected with a standard rack, and quite fun. Combining the pitches is highly recommended, but the average 5.8/5.9 leader will want to double up in the 1-3 Camalot sizes to do it.

10a start: This is the shallow left facing corner and thin crack right of the regular start and just right of the 5.7 variation. The Rolofson guide calls this 10a, and that's about right. The start, up to a ledge, is harder than it looks. The step right at a ceiling is a little exciting, with gear up high and left, and about 5.9. You probably don't want to combine this start with the second pitch due to rope drag over the ceiling. You would need a really long sling to prevent drag, and that would make the step right a little too exciting.

Damn, what a fine crack this is. For me, the balancy 5.7 section off the deck was the scariest, it's a wee dirty and funky. Once above the ledge the stemming is fabulous then the jamming goes on for a longish time. I was glad I had 2 #1 Camalots, and a #3.5. Several rests provide opportunity to de-pump your left arm.

Climbed this for the third time recently, I have now done all 3 start variations. The 10a start is accurately described by Ivan. The upper pitch is shorter than I remembered, maybe only 120' or so. The jams also seemed less bomber (flared) than I remembered, and it helps to have big hands on this pitch. The crux on this pitch seemed to me at the small 1' overhang (between the cracks). This pitch will uncover any flaws in your crack climbing and stemming technique!

The original start is great and I disagree with the author on avoiding it. It protects well with smaller cams and make the the whole climb constantly challenging. Climb the left-facing dihedral to the left of the 5.7 start. This makes the first pitch 10d.

There is a nice variety of techniques to apply on this route - jamming, stemming, and thin balancey moves. The 5.10a variation on P1 is great, though I thought the pro was lacking near the upper section. Managed to place a purple TCU in the little hand-sized flake at the crux, but I wouldn't want to fall onto that piece.

Why would you skip the true first pitch at 10d? Yeah the gear is a little strange, but you get two bomber nuts to begin with and two small cams before the crux move. The first pitch is tough and well worth climbing.

However, it is tough to do as one long pitch this way due to drag.

Cheers,

CL

One of the best cracks in BoCan IMHO. Get pro in on the 10d start early as it is hard to place through the crux section and you are right above the deck. Awesome varied crack on the second pitch. No gimme for a 5.9 leader. You might want a double set if cams on this one to sew it up or bring a few hexes. A #4 can be placed, but not required. It varies a lot though so a single set of nuts, cams will suffice if confident on 5.9 crack.

Terrific route, which is the namesake of the two Security Risk formations. It seems odd to grade the route according to the easier and less interesting variations and to describe the variations as the route. The route starts on the 10+ corner. It is not 5.9. IMO the route should be listed and graded as originally climbed, with the easier variations being noted as options. Good gear is available, but strenuous to place on the original first pitch The route gets another star if you run both pitches together, which is quite straightforward to do without rope drag.

The 10d way is the route as it was, and is the better way anyway. A good line worth doing.

Great climb. One of the best of the trad climbs in the Boulder Canyon area (Left Side - WWW, Where Eagles Dare - Blob Rock, Cosmosis - Bell Buttress, and Security Risk). The 10d start is protectable for any competent trad climber and should not be avoided unless 5.9 is your limit. I had gear above my head the entire way. There's even a fixed nut directly below the crux. Great stemming options throughout (no hands rest below the crux, though strenuous on the legs).