This is the route to the left of Road to Isengard, beginning at the base of the arete. Climb past two bolts to the first of two small roofs. Clip the third bolt before turning the roof. You can turn the roof on the left side or the right side/straight up; the left side might be a bit easier. Climb an easy slab to a second roof. Turn this smaller roof on the right and finish up past 2 more bolts. The climb tops out on a ledge with a 2-bolt anchor (shared with Road to Isengard).
Protection
9 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor. 60m rope needed to lower. A longer runner on the second bolt will keep down rope drag.
Two bolt anchor at the top eliminates need for tree anchors (perhaps now it is aptly named?). Also, more bolts made this a fine lead without gear. Much like Lothlorien, with roomy placements (a fifth bolt before the anchors on that one too!). Finally, another bolt route on the right shares same anchor with Memory. Michael Walker
This is actually a pretty good route, and makes the crag worth visiting. The first roof is certainly easier on the left, and the second one goes elegantly straight up or more easily on the right.
As of 6/5/02 this route has nine bolts, though only six are easily visible from the ground. Two long draws for the bolts below the roofs will prevent rope drag at the top.
[The] unknown climber on [Ron Olsen's] picture from [August] 27 is none other than Brent Pohlmann, who has the distinction of swimming from Alcatraz Island to San Francisco WITHOUT a wetsuit more times than anyone else in Boulder......13 to be exact, including 3 roundtrips and 2 on New Year's Day.
Best route of the area. Couple of fun roofs and some nice exposure if you stick with arete. The anchor is quite far right. If you top rope it, you will probably want to leave a quick draw in the bolt above the first roof. A fall there would otherwise probably swing you into the rock to your right. 5.9.
Great route! The two roofs are great bookends for an easy middle section. 2nd roof is a blast, don't go right, try a mantle!
By djoseph From: Boulder, CO Apr 24, 2008 rating: 5.9
One of the nicest 9s in the canyon. Worth a trip to Watermark for this and Twin Peaks. Sometimes crowded on summer days. Needs almost all of a 60m rope.
By percious From: Arvada, CO May 31, 2008 rating: 5.9