On the right side of the South Face of Surprising Crag, look for bolted, twin hand cracks that lead to a face w/ a bulge. Jam up the twin hand cracks either placing your own gear or clipping bolts, step left from a ledge onto the face, and jug haul to the top.
Protection
6 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. The first half of the climb, a hand and fist jam crack can be led w/ gear or with 3 quickdraws.
One of the better routes on Surprising Crag - clean, uncontrived, actually well-bolted (not too over-bolted and they aren't in stupid places), and it might even be 5.8
This entire climb can be easily and safely led using gear. After the fun handcrack start, step right and get under the roof. Place a cam and move left to turn the roof and arrive at the anchors. Mike.
A good route. Makes a fun lead with some interesting moves.
By Matt Gates From: Pinewood Springs, CO Sep 1, 2008 rating: 5.8
Gave this one three stars if led on gear.
Beta:
Used a No.4 to protect the first move into the crack, then a large stopper a little higher up. Two small but trucker stoppers in the left seam protect the crux, which I thought was exiting the hand crack. Head right, place a No. 2 then step up to the roof and place a small cam or two for the easy traverse back left. Exit the roof and it's all good. Very satisfying.
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