Global Gorilla climbs up a prominent arete on the Upper Animal World cliff. As you are walking from the left side of the cliff to the right, the route lies on the second arete on the wall. It starts by climbing up a thin seam in a small dihedral before moving up and right to the arete. This route is absolutely fantastic. Well bolted on fantastic high-quality rock, every inch is enjoyable. The first pitch (often done alone without continuing on the second and third pitches) is solid 5.11b and is a great lead. Some tricky sequences and delicate moves up an arete are sure to leave you smiling. The second and third pitches weigh in at 5.12b/c and 5.12b respectively, and require some powerful moves up an overhanging face. If you're feeling really strong, try linking all 3 pitches for a burly 160 ft. 5.12c! Just make sure you have 2 60m ropes to get down with.
Protection
If the route is done as one pitch, it is 160 ft. long and has 24 bolts with a 2 bolt anchor. It can be done in 3 pitches as well, so only 11 quickdraws are needed. The first pitch is the longest at 75 ft., so it can be done on a 50m rope.
No need for double 60's to get down. As it is mentioned above, there are three bolt/chain anchors on the way up over a 160 piece of rock. One could do it with a single 50m, and do three raps off. With a single 60m, you can link from the ground to the top, then thread the chains and lower to the cushy second belay ledge (all the while your second is still on the ground). Then you can either belay them up, or just pull your rope and rap (two raps to ground) and give them a go on lead.
Only led the first pitch, but the description is right...wonderful pitch with different types of moves all the way up. From the left side of the arete, clip the bolt before committing to the move out onto the arete. A sunny day, good friends and climbing like this are what it's all about.
I did the second pitch of this recently and really didn't think it was any part of 12c. I would say 12b, 2 stars. The first pitch, however, is my favorite mid-11 sport pitch in the Canyon, fully 3 stars
P2 seems a bit contrived -- a lot easier (12b) if you head hard right above the belay -- staying left is 12c and you risk falling on top of your belayer. P3 is quality. Seems the vast majority do P1 and rap...
For the problem of falling on your belayer, its best to do the first two pitches as one. Expect huge rope drag on the 2nd pitch though. We got around this by TR'ing the first pitch, then launched into the 2nd pitch with the belayer still on the ground.
I got on the 3rd pitch of this the other day, and I would have to say that it is considerably more difficult than the supposed route crux on the 2nd pitch. However, there is a fairly sizeable scar between the 1st and 2nd bolts which may have once been a fairly crucial hold. The pitch was also unchalked, licheny, and somewhat flakey making me wonder how many ascents its seen. Watch out below if someone is on this pitch: I dislodged a credit card sized flake which nearly hit a party below. Compared to the other pitches at Upper Animal World, I would give this pitch 1 star for the climbing and 3 stars for position. I would rate the three pitches of Global Gorilla 11b, 12a/b, and 12c.
Wow! The first pitch alone on this climb is one of the best 11s in the canyon, but linking all 3 pitches into a 160' pitch makes it absolutely amazing. I just wanted to post a current comment that says that the "3rd pitch" seemed completely solid to me. Don't be afraid of loose flakes, I didn't find any. I also have to agree that the "3rd pitch" is the crux of the climb. Even with a great rest before it, the moves feel way harder than the "2nd pitch crux". I realize it's all relative, but I would call it 11b, 12b, 12c. Every "pitch" of this climb is 2-3 stars, but, as a whole, it is unquestionably 3 stars!
I found the first pitch pretty good, but not my favorite at BoCan. 2 stars, maybe 3. Not sure what the fuss is about. Felt 5.11....looking forward to the full send one day though.
Animal World
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