Third route from the right. This route is just to the right of Topless Etiquette. It is interesting, because it's only got three bolts in about 60-70 feet of climbing. I think this gives the route its character. It's a really slabby route that requires good balance and footwork, and it's quite runout. There is deckout potential if you fell off of easy moves. The three bolts are at the only three places you really need them, and not everywhere in between, just for the sake of having a bolt every four feet. Be confident at the grade and style of climbing.
The crux comes at the second and third bolts, with sustained thin slab climbing up a right-facing corner.
Can toprope this route after leading Topless Etiquette to the higher anchor. Place a directional runner on the top bolt if you do this.
Protection
Three bolts plus small-to-medium gear. 2-bolt anchor.
This route is not over-bolted like the rest of the routes at this area which makes it much more exciting. The bolts are at the places where they are needed. Someone went crazy with their drill at the Riviera (sport Park??). That aside, this route is worth climbing.
By Leo Paik Administrator From: Westminster, Colorado Mar 5, 2002
This is a great route. A few Aliens and a #1 Camalot make it quite reasonable for the competent leader. One of the best routes of its grade in the canyon. Footwork is key.
Fun route that definitely keeps you on your toes. Compared to TE, it looks way runout, but it is true the bolts are just where you need 'em. Leo's advice on gear is good, I managed to place 2 stoppers, 2 Aliens and the #1 Camalot (after the last bolt). The only place that is runout is after the first bolt, but it is surprisingly easy there.
The slabby section after the second bolt felt nearly as difficult as Sea Breeze.
By dbyte From: Carbondale, CO Jul 14, 2008 rating: 5.10d PG13
Great old-school line w/ very thoughtful moves. I felt going direct between @ last 2 bolts to be the definite crux & 5.10d.
By Andy Laakmann Site Landlord From: Jackson Hole, WY Oct 20, 2008 rating: 5.10b PG13
Best climb on the wall IMO. Bolts and gear are where you need them. Small TCUs will get you to the first bolt. I placed an RP off left before getting to the 2nd bolt. And I placed a #2 Camalot as a directional for my second above the last bolt. 10b felt correct.
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