Located between Splitting Hares and Centennial, is this entertaining 9 bolt sport climb. The 12a grade is a tad soft, but not completely out of the question, especially on the onsight. The redpoint grade is closer to 11c/d. Centennial seemed to have a harder crux move, but A Tall Cool One is more continuous, and a more enjoyable route.
I checked for updates on this route after getting rained off it today. I was surprised to see the website grade comment as 5.8+/2 people.Just out of curiosity...if i posted and rated the route 11d/12a and the only other grade indicated on the site is by the ubiquitous ac as 12b, how does that equate to 5.8+/2 people in cb.comland? BTW, I think I overrated it initially - 11c/d seems closer.
This is a pretty tricky climb and if it's rated 11d I doubt it will be downgraded. A must-do climb if you thrive on hi-octane exhaust fumes and burning brakes. The ambience is definitely worth a bomb.
Excellent route with some problem solving. Would be a three star if it weren't so close to traffic noise. Myself and two friends did the lower crux differently a couple days ago. The upper crux was good for me. I almost hung because of the difficulty of the clip, but I downclimbed three moves pseudo-rested and then went back up and did it. It was one of those spots and moments where you can screw yourself by having a negative mindset: thinking about a fall, fear, etc...but it was good for me because I was able to keep that at bay. Maybe that's why I liked the line so much.
By Tony B From: Boulder, CO May 21, 2005 rating: 5.11c
If I were sending pals to the crag I'd tell them this is one of the better routes, so I'll give it 2 stars. As for difficulty, I found it not so bad except for the one left hand side pull around the 4th bolt, which also is not so bad once you find it right. Felt easier than the route just to the left, "Centennial" (11c/d).
The nut on the sixth bolt (protecting the second crux) is loose. I was only able to finger tighten it today.
Two stars despite the route's proximity to the road. Sustained, very puzzling climbing. Even after I wired the cruxes, it felt like .11d to me. And when you think the climb's over (after the mantle to the rest ledge and a few juggy moves) there's a surprise before the anchors.
This route is "A Tall Cool One", 5.12a, first ascent by Dan Hare and Matt Fetbrod, July 2002, according to Mark Rolofson's new guidebook "Boulder Canyon Sport and Adventure Climber's Guide Volume II - The Upper Canyon".
By Chris O'Connor From: Boulder, Co Feb 14, 2007 rating: 5.11d
11d/12a sounds most accurate. It is a beautiful route, with nice dihedral moves at the begining, stellar face climbing in the middle and juggy cruiser moves at the top. For the rock and the moves, it's classic, and for the lazy person or time crunched like myself, the close proximity to the road is a good thing.
This makes a reasonable climb to do some quick aid practice, right by the road. You can basically climb the entire pitch as a bolt ladder, with a few mandatory free moves that are pretty easy, but still require getting out of the aiders. Don't need any gear besides draws when done this way with a few easy free moves.
My fitness level is poor right now, but I would call this every bit of 11+. Probably not 12a, but definitely too hard for mid-range 5.11. It's worth a go for anyone aspiring to lead at this level, because of the closely spaced bolts.
By Joshua Merriam From: Boulder, CO Jul 30, 2008 rating: 5.11c/d
The low crux, on review, wasn't bad at all, just tenuous. Actually the second was the same. I felt that the moves were very footwork and body position dependent, not so much strength.
RSS Feed
Slideshow
