The same for the first 20 feet as Thin Crack. Start out up the obvious crack running up and left. Move up to the top left corner of the roof. The large bulge to your left as you start is off limits, for those keeping score. Move out over the roof, and follow the crack up and right up to the finish.
Protection
Long slings, and I mean long(2 fifteen footers would be perfect). For trad lead, cams below the roof, stoppers above.
this was my first trad climb. pretty cool! there is an ancient cam stuck in the crack below the roof. tried to yank it out but it wouldn't budge. oh well.
By Gary Schmidt From: Boulder, CO Jun 27, 2004 rating: 5.9-
Good route. Felt pretty easy for a 5.9 rating though. Roof protects well. Definitely a lot easier than the "5.9+ thin crack" route that exits the right part of the roof.
By Matt Chan From: Denver, CO Mar 29, 2005 rating: 5.7+
Good gear makes this route a breeze. Down low, a couple of good wires and maybe a TCU in a pin scar. A number 3 camalot above and right of the overhang is bomber and a big stopper behind the expanding flake will sew it up well. Be careful not to set the stopper to deep behind the flake, you might not get it back. Feels no harder than some of the older routes in the 7+ range in BoCan (Owl, Cozyhang, Empor).
The "roof" on this left line is a detached, hollow sounding, sketchy block wedged between somewhat solid rock on the right and another detached hollow sounding sketch block on the left.
Amazingly these are covered in chalk, and even more amazing is that the most chalked holds pull out.
These blocks will go someday soon if people continue to yard on them.
If you insist on climbing this foregettable route instead of the much nicer route to the right, park your car, and your belayer, out of the path of these blocks.
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