Marga Powell at the crux move left. You can get a...
Description
Begin about 20 feet below a big "tooth". climb along the right side of the tooth and then head up right along the flare. this is a good "arm" jam. Finish off the face for the last 15 feet to the two bolt anchor. Excellent route for the first time lead on trad and for beginners trad practice!
Protection
no bolts, use mid sized nuts or small cams for most of the climb. Need a #3 camalot for a large crack about 3/4 of the way up. Two bolt chained anchor at the top. Able to top rope ONLY with a 60m rope.
I agree that this route is a good route to hand jam in but perhaps not to be leading at first, it is easy but not that easy, take one of the routes to the left like Twofers and lead this for practice, but indeed this route has nice hand jams. I would give it 3 stars where you only gave it 2, it is worth 3.
I agree with the three star rating. This is a fun pitch, and a great lead. The crux (for me) was a high-step from a stance at an undercling about halfway up. The gear is fantastic all the way up.
...and as much as I hate to disagree with Myke, I've belayed topropers on this climb with a 50m cord, and it works just fine.
TRed this one yesterday and had a dandy time. As has been mentioned, a 50m rope is just long enough for the climb, which ever side of the tooth you start on. The anchors are pretty exposed, though and I rigged a bellay to get out there. Fantastic climb, 3-stars all the way. I didn't see too manyhand jam opportunities but there was a nice mix techniques from stemming to laybacks. The crux is about half way up with a thin finger crack/dihedral stem to a fat undercling to another layback.Anyway, gorgeous climb on quality rock!
My first (8) lead, Grins turned out to be a perfect way to break into the new grade. The moves were fun and well protected. Whenever you want to place gear, you're afforded a comfortable spot.
Just led this one on saturday. very good route with lots of pro. The crux is definately turning a corner using hand jams, so make sure you can jam well. Plenty of pro, bring big cams 2,3,4 or big hexs for upper portion of the route.
Last time I climbed this was with a semi-beginner. I think I'll leave off his name. He led it, belayed, then took in the rope. So far so good. At this point, as per usual, I wanted to put my climbing shoes on. I stepped back to grab them, but the rope was already tight. And stayed tight.
I yelled, ”slack!“ over and over, but the creek was high, he was way out of sight above, and he could not hear. In fact, he just pulled harder. So I ended up in midair, upside down, just off the ground; swinging like a mad spider, pawing the ground like a dog running on a hardwood floor and panting and laughing like a mad drunk, and eventually grabbed one shoe.
I righted myself, put it on hanging with my feet just inches off the ground, then commenced battle again. A crucial couple of inches had since been pulled in, so I could barely reach the ground anymore. Finally, I found a handy stick to prod the shoe closer, and lift it off the ground so I could grab it. Hmmmm. Rereading this, I think perhaps I should leave my name off too.
By Tim Stich From: Colorado Springs, Colorado Sep 22, 2007
Egads, Steve! Now you've gone and signed your name to that one.