Marga Powell getting in position to turn the roof.
Description
A neat roof problem. Start on the left side of the gully, below the obvious roof about 35 feet up. Scramble up to the left corner of the roof, layback, reach, and move out through the left corner. Continue up directly above the roof.
Protection
Look for the two nice trees, and a 1' wide slot drops the rope perfectly.
When reaching the roof, place that piece at the lip and then reach up and right over the roof to find the nice jug waiting for you a little hard to spot from the ground and on the lead but once you find it the climbing eases for sure. A nice line. (Whats with the piton about 2 feet from the top ? Weird spot as there are plenty of spots there for good gear ? Huh
What a great challenge for the Gym climber gone outside. I took a few gym climbers up today and found ourselves (among many others) with a great end of the day climb. The roof could be rated greater than an 8 if you were to heel hook to the right, however, I found it much more enjoyable to navigate the corner with a smooth crawl up the opposing face while grasping the great hold just above the roof. The slab directly above the roof is really thin for slab... just the way we like it. Jeff Burley
The Gunks in Boulder Canyon. Place the big cam in the back of the roof with a long runner and slowly crawl with a long reach out to the jug, out the roof. Let your feet cut for fun!!
Some years ago, a friend introduce me to outdoor climbing on this very route. We top roped it on a cold March day. I finally got around to leading it and, wow, what a fun route. Turning the roof proved quite gratifying and I found it to be somewhat easier than the roof on The Owl. I know this route is a popular TR destination, but I recommend it as a quality trad route. It seems like a good route to break into the grade. A yellow alien protects the crux perfectly.
I just did this yesterday. Didn't feel quite like 5.8, but still super fun. However, I wouldn't want to lead this, as I didn't notice any pro placements after you turn the roof.
By Tradsplatter From: Boulder, CO Nov 22, 2006 rating: 5.7+
Led this enjoyable route for first time on beautiful fall day, yesterday. This climb did not feel like a 5.8 to me - got stung by a bee as soon as pulled over the roof, so maybe this adds a half grade of difficulty! Roof is a fun little puzzle & easily protectable. There are two nut placements in the crack directly above the roof and at least one hex left and above if you look around for it.
By Mark Cushman From: Erie, CO Apr 9, 2008 rating: 5.8
I wouldn't want to lead this, as I didn't notice any pro placements after you turn the roof.
Plenty of pro after you turn the roof, don't hesitate to lead this one. Wasn't even runout at all.
Happy Hour Crag
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