The route is the first set of bolts you come to on the face (not the small cave area on the right side), approaching from the west, about 10 feet right of a large mossy crack running up and left. Follow the bolts up; the crux is after the second bolt.
A pretty good route, straight forward 10a. Some good climbs start from the top of this pitch. Refer to Rossiter's book. There is a great, sequential 12a (seemed easier than 12a) straight up from the belay and a strenuous 11c to the right.
By Peter Spindloe Administrator From: North Vancouver, BC Oct 24, 2001
I don't think that this route deserves the stars, it's mostly just awkward without being interesting. Still, it looks like a much better start for Vampire than the official first pitch.
Definitely a much better start to 'The Vampire' or 'Crack of Desperation' than the 5.7 trad start (very loose rock). Not a 3-star route either. Mostly awkward.
Solid stone, well protected, with no move harder than 5.9.
By Darren Mabe From: Goulder, CO Jul 21, 2003 rating: 5.10a
Fun route. Soft for 10a, but sustained at 5.9. Only route that I have done on Vampire, but looked like it was the cleanest of the base routes. Generous clipping stances.
If you follow the bolt line (rather than climb right, then hand traverse back) I think this line is legit 5.10 and features interesting and not at all awkward climbing. It is only marred by the line of easier holds off to the right that sucker you in and make for a much more unfulfilling experience.
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