Start between Devin's Dihedral and Silver Glide. Make a steep face move past a bolt, then a difficult step up and right (or a mantle) to a narrow ledge (#1 or #2 Camalot for pro). Climb up and right, joining Silver Glide, past four more bolts to the anchor.
This climb can also be toproped after leading Au Natural.
For those who can't make it up Silver Glide (that's me), this is actually quite a good route. While the book shows the route going around the arete to get to the second bolt, it's possible to go straight up the lower face and do a nice and rather balancy mantle off the obvious shelf.
Hmmm. I went straight up the right side, not knowing what route was what until after I'd done them. I placed a few tricams in the crack on the arete between the first and second bolts to do this route, and was glad to have them for what I perceived to be the crux.
This is fun, tricky, and thoughtful for a few moves, especially trying to mantle onto that first ledge. Yes, it is a bit crammed in, but it does not deserve the "Bomb" rating.
A #2 Camalot protects between the first and second bolt; probably nice to use a shoulder-length sling to avoid rope drag.
By Leo Paik Administrator From: Westminster, Colorado Sep 29, 2003
Ditto, better than a bomb. Worth a run if you're there.
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