Eric at the base of the start. The person up highe...
Description
2 pitches.
P1. Start at base of North face between 2 huge boulders, go up crack and after 50 feet continue in crack system to the right....keep going until you reach a small pillar just over the right edge of a huge right facing corner...belay here.
P2. Head up hand crack that curves right (tricky crux, flared jams) then heads straight up to summit. You can avoid this crux finish and from the belay go left up huge V-slot (5.0) to summit, but why?
The first pitch is a nice, long, sustained 5.7 with lot's of gear opportunities. The second pitch intersects with Empor and can cause some belaying difficulty if the 5.7+ finish is selected since you have to climb down slightly from the belay before heading to the top.
Climbed this again yesterday. Combined with the last Empor pitch I think it's easily 3 stars. The first pitch has a few .7 moves but is mostly 5.6, I think. Great apres-work climb as the approach takes about 1.5 minutes. Fun beginner lead.
Great climb. I'd give this 3 stars and go as far as suggesting that it's a better line than Empor. The entire climb follows a broken crack system making this one of the longer (and probably best) 5.7 cracks in BC. Perfect jams are available for almost the entire route (assuming you do the 7+ finish). The first pitch is a nice warm up with a few 5.7 moves. The second pitch is more sustained with great pro the whole way up. Watch out for parties on Empor, though, as you might have to wait for them to pass(as we did).
Pitch 1 was excellent, however, some idiots decided to jump on the belay ledge with me as my partner was on his way up pitch 2. Personally, I would have stopped about 15' feet below to build my anchor on the larger ledge if I saw another party up there. I ran into quite a bit of loose rock (big ones) on pitch 2. All in all, a great climb. Great views of the canyon and surrounding rock.
On a humorous note, this route is approaching sport climb status with 4-5 stuck piece of gear and a piton or two........ Rack: QDs, there's s*** stuck all the way up the crack...... Seriously though, it's one of the best routes in Boulder Canyon in my opinion.
A fine route! A couple 5.7 moves with great rests. Gear: I didnt use anything larger than a 2 camalot (save for one #10 hex). Theres a great exposed belay on the arete at the top of pitch one (dont go into v-slot). This eases rope drag and allows you to see your partner, and theres no belay difficulties if parties are on empor (always). if you opt for the original finish instead of empor finish, you can: climb the exposed arete just above this belay, or jump into the easy corner. at the top of the corner, finish with a short finger crack (about 8 feet left of the bolt line).
This route has a very large, somewhat loose rock on it at the little ledge (an arete of sorts to the left) where one might set up their first belay. Be cautious of this rock! It is set well (it's been there for thousands of years) but you'll see what I mean if you are trying to place gear in it. Cheers. Brian W
By William McGehee From: Choctaw, OK Oct 11, 2003 rating: 5.7+
Climbed this line today, starting around 2 pm. Getting a little cold on the north face. The whole formation was in the shade when we showed up. Great route, three stars. Remember that the Empor link-up goes at 5.7+ easily. I spent a week in Indian Creek and this still gave me a challenge. My girlfriend had to French Free it near the top. Keep that in mind for a second with intermediate hand strength (cupping hands).
I think this is definitely on par with Empor in terms of overall quality and difficulty, a very enjoyable climb. I agree with the comment about Cob Rock being a gear graveyard, there is fixed gear (stoppers, TCUs, etc.) all over the place ;-)
By Matt Chan From: Denver, CO Jun 14, 2004 rating: 5.7+
Yeah, mucho fun at the grade. Right on par with other BC 7s like Cozyhang, The Owl, and Standard Route. I would recommend bringing double #2 Camalots and at least one #3 if you want to feel well protected on the stellar final pitch.
By Michael J Yarros From: Colorado Springs, CO Jul 7, 2004 rating: 5.7+
Very nice route. Finished the second pitch by going up the arete (instead of the V-slot) to the final short crack to the top. Like the above comments there is plenty of "gear" to clip into. First time climbing in Boulder Canyon, Great climb.
By Scott Edlin From: boulder, co Jun 19, 2006 rating: 5.7
I led this in three pitches. Pitch one was to the first ledge, just after stepping right (could have gone to the second ledge a bit further up). Pitch two was up and onto the arete, belayed at the top of the arete. Pitch three (short) was up the crack 8' left of the bolt line. Done this way, I found the crux to be on pitch two, moving into the flared wide crack just above a piton with mediocre feet and non-positive hands.
Climbed on 5/15/07 and enjoyed it lots, I recommend this route.
By kevinnlong From: Boulder, CO Aug 18, 2007 rating: 5.7+
This is a fantastic route with some exposure, long (sustained) climbing, and quality rock!
Don't be fooled by the grade; it makes you earn a 5.7. The crux for me on the second pitch was quite dicey as the feet seemed mediocre. Once I committed, the moves went cleanly.