A 60m rope is recommended, though not necessary. Start on the ramp at the R side of the rock and work up to an ugly crack. Veer L up a "dirty" section to a large ledge. Take the ledge to the L and climb up between two cracks. Finish on the L crack to the second horizontal crack (crux). Jam up to the top.
Fun route with the crux IMHO near the top when climbing in between the two cracks. Definitely some real fun moves down low, then get the pump going in between the two cracks. Enjoy the super easy TR set-up.
This is a fun route, my buddy Ryan and I toproped it. It got kind of cold at about three o'clock, but I'll take what I can get in February. I'm suprised more people don't climb here. If you feel pretty good when you start this, if you move a little farther left from the start, the first moves are more like 5.8+. Still fun though!
This reminded me of Question of Balance in Taylor Canyon, Gunnison. Similar rock slickness, similar length (this is a little longer), similar increase in severity as you go higher, similar failure for me on both (couldn't get the last few moves, glad I was on toprope!).
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